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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Default Which Grinding Wheel For Grinding Tungsten Electrodes

    Hi,

    I just used the search facility to find an answer to my question but was surprised not to find one!!

    When I have ground my electrodes previously (at places of work) there has always been a green silicone carbide wheel to use. However, now I am finally getting around to setting up my TIG welder for action at home, I will need to buy the appropriate grinding wheel(s) to grind my electrodes.

    So does one need a "GREEN" coloured silicone carbide wheel as I have previously encountered? If so, why is that? Will I also need to purchase an industrial diamond as a wheel dresser?

    All advice would be appreciated.

    Cheers
    MH

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    SW Sydney
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    Default

    Just use your regular grinder stones, your most likely not doing stuff that has to pass x-ray examinations so the small amount of contamination that may occur shouldn't bother you.

  3. #3
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    Dec 2008
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    Default

    According to the TAFE TIG course I'm in:
    Grind with a diamond wheel. The hardest wheels you can find due to the hardness of the tungsten. And not too coarse either because tungsten tends to chip off rather than cut. Linisher afterwards helps to smooth it out. You don't want a bit of loose tungsten melting and falling off into the weld.

    Dedicated wheel to avoid contamination.

  4. #4
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    Jul 2009
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    melbourne
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    Default

    Hi MH,

    I've never really liked using grinding stones for some reason. Have you thought about just using a 4" or 5" sander? Thats what I mostly do at home. Otherwise you could set up a small linishing belt on your bench grinder - that'd be my preferred option. Sorry to waste your time by not actually answering your questions though!

    Cheers

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Mackay North Qld
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    Default Chemical sharpening paste

    An alternate to a grinder wheel is a chemical sharpening paste which works by you heating your tungsten red hot and dipping the tungsten in and out the material

    It is an oxididant and erodes/burns /away metal to form a long tapered point.It is compeltely safe unless you eat it I suppose.

    Its round the $20mark and cheaper than a dedicated wheel.It lasts for years. It takes a bit of hunting through the welding supply mobs but is still available.

    Grahame

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
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    Bayswater Nth Melbourne
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Grahame Collins View Post
    An alternate to a grinder wheel is a chemical sharpening paste which works by you heating your tungsten red hot and dipping the tungsten in and out the material

    It is an oxididant and erodes/burns /away metal to form a long tapered point.It is compeltely safe unless you eat it I suppose.

    Its round the $20mark and cheaper than a dedicated wheel.It lasts for years. It takes a bit of hunting through the welding supply mobs but is still available.

    Grahame
    G'day Grahame, after reading your earlier comment on the paste I got work to get some. Cost $40, When I asked why I was told "Courier costs". Any way, have you any tips when using it as it seamed to eat alot of the electrode and it didnt take the contaminate away very well. I've gone back to grinding for the moment but am feeling guitly about waisting the boss's money.
    Regards, Col.

  7. #7
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    Jan 2004
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    Default

    G day Col
    The paste was never designed for "removal" of contaminants ,solely as a sharpener.

    Contamination is best avoided by a throrough cleaning of the work area and by careful manipulation of the torch and not "oops" accidentally dipping into the molten pool or touching the tungsten with the filler wire.
    I get around it by rough grinding to remove the crap on the tungsten and then chemical prepping the tungsten.

    It can be difficult to keep them to a 2 to 3 Diameter taper.
    Its best achieved by keeping the dips into the paste shallow.

    Re the $40 I had local quotes of $17 to $25. It may be time to look at a different supplier of welding consumables.

    Generally if they know you and you buy a fair bit they should look after you.

    Grahame

  8. #8
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    Default

    Hi,

    Thanks to all those you replied with whatever advice you gave. I was intrigued by Grahame's advice about the paste. However, I have worked in the aircraft and ship industries and I never came across that idea - I'm not implying that it doesn't work but given Col's experience I am unlikely to go down that path - no offence Grahame.

    Edster - You make a very good case regards a diamond wheel but won't it get clogged over time and liable to contaminate the electrode which is one of the things one wants to avoid? The green wheels I have always used have been of a fine nature and supposedly dedicated to grinding tungsten electrodes only. This was true in my time in the RAF when one workshop welder got into trouble for cleaning up a mild steel rod on it.

    Bespoke Dude - I have seen people use linishing machines for grinding electrodes but they have also been used for other materials. I don't know if they are really ideal for this purpose.

    However, I am interested to know why GREEN silicon carbide wheels are advised generally for this purpose.

    Cheers
    MH

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Mackay North Qld
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    Default

    Its a bit of piddling around to grind the contaminants away IMHO .

    Mostly operators seem to grip the tungsten between 2 sets of pliers and snap off the offending piece.
    Then heatup and back into the paste.


    The tungstens arent that dear $2.50 each or near that.

    Its dropping the torch and cracking the ceramic that makes me cry.

    Grahame

  10. #10
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    Dec 2008
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    Default

    Metal Head - as mentioned, tungsten tends to chip off in large chips rather than get smoothed away with particles clogging the wheel. Nevertheless you aren't meant to sharpen tungsten on the wheel if it's got a lot of contaminants on it.

    Nothing's wrong with the green silcon carbide. That definitely is a tougher wheel as well and the type we have at TAFE right now.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Newcastle
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    864

    Default

    I use a stone that I aquired that was a diahatsu diesel , ( were talking marine diesel engines here ) stone for regrinding stelite exhaust valve seats, it is worn past the diam needed for the engine exhaust valve seats 5" diam approx but set up in an old skill drill (3,000 rpm ) on a mandrel with the drill clamped to the bench it does a great job
    So the advice is try a marine repair workshop or engineering workshop for wheels suitable for stellite exhaust valve seats .
    Ashore




    The trouble with life is there's no background music.

  12. #12
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    Feb 2006
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Grahame Collins View Post
    Its a bit of piddling around to grind the contaminants away IMHO.

    We were taught in the RAF by using the corner edge of the wheel (to grind an area 6mm beyond the contaminated area at 45 degrees) and turn the electrode anti-clockwise using your index finger and thumb until the contaminated piece broke off. This would leave a point that you would grind to the angle you wanted by moving it across the cutting face, thus stopping ridges being formed in the cutting face. Remember to grind the tip so the lines in the same direction as the electrode.

    Mostly operators seem to grip the tungsten between 2 sets of pliers and snap off the offending piece. I know what you mean Grahame, some tradies don't care about the wastage as they don't have to pay for them.

    Then heatup and back into the paste. The tungstens arent that dear $2.50 each or near that.

    Its dropping the torch and cracking the ceramic that makes me cry.

    Grahame
    Cheers
    MH

  13. #13
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    Default

    Thanks also to Edstar & Ashmore for your additional comments. I will inquire about stellite wheels - I have never heard of them.

  14. #14
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    Default

    They were not reffering to Stellite wheels,but the wheels for grinding Stellite.

  15. #15
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    They were not reffering to Stellite wheels,but the wheels for grinding Stellite.
    Thanks for saving my there Pipeclay. However, I must admit I was in a rush at the time before having to go to work.

    Cheers
    MH

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