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Bazzmate
27th Nov 2008, 11:48 PM
Hi, I’m a woodworking, weekend warrior from way back and it’s looking like I’ll be branching out into metalwork as I’ve picked up a 6x4 trailer chassis and springs for $100. It appears to be a bargain but that is yet to be seen. However, it’s a new and different project and I get the satisfaction of making the trailer myself AND . . . it’s a good excuse to go buy a new tool (or two:D!!!!)

Anyway, I’ve been pouring through the metalwork, welder and trailer threads and have picked up some great tips. I got to Wood Butchers post (refer link below) and saw the newly made trailer in the pre-painted stage and it got me thinking about painting.
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=28139 (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=28139)

I’m only at the stage of gathering materials in readiness for assembly and still need welding practice but I was wondering if someone would be able to clue me in about any tricks I should know with regards to the painting process.

Is it as easy as removing any surface rust with a wire brush or those flapper disc thingys in the grinder, spraying with a grey primer and then spraying a couple of top coats? Did I miss anything? Is there any particular primer or top coat (Hammertone?)that works best? Preferred brands of paint?

Thanks in advance.

Papa
28th Nov 2008, 05:34 AM
I would use a oxide primer to start with, that will stop any little
bit of rust you missed.

If possible sand blasting first would be better. You need to prime as
soon as you can after blasting. A small spot blaster would do for just
the spots and welds. If you are using new material you need to wash
any oils off first.

A good coat of primer and let it set for several days, then rough it
with a grit pad and paint.

Or go for broke and get it powder coated..:U:U:U

BobL
28th Nov 2008, 10:37 PM
After scraping of as much rust as you can I would use Ranex on the rust, several coats if necessary. This converts rust into iron phosphate which unlike rust is not porous and so it helps stop air getting through to the steel underneath. Then after that I would do what papa said.

Bazzmate
28th Nov 2008, 11:19 PM
Thanks for the tips Papa and BobL.
Yes, the chasis does have some surface rust. With a it of luck, I'll be able to get away with spending a few extra hours of grinding/sanding to keep the cost down.
Cheers

Yonnee
4th Dec 2008, 11:12 PM
If you're near an autObarn, have a look at the K&H brand rust converters. Most rust converters' main ingredient is phosphoric acid, so they pretty much do the same job as each other, but K&H do a rust converter and primer 'all-in-one', that can be left without a top coat for up to 6 months.

On the trailers I build, I like to paint the surfaces that mate together or overlap (such as the floor to chassis) with a bitumen paint.

Hammertone is also a good choice as it has rust inhibitors mixed in when the paint is made. But if used like most mass produced trailer manufacturers, that is one coat, as thin as possible, straight over the unprepped bare trailer, then it won't last six months. If sprayed on in a few thicker coats, then it can provide quite a durable finish.

BUT... BEWARE!!! The silicon based additive that is mixed in to create the 'Hammered' finish is extremely difficult to get rid of from brushes, spray guns, etc. So I would suggest a cheap gun and brushes for the sole purpose of applying the Hammertone, and keep your clean-up thinners separate and marked accordingly.

Bazzmate
5th Dec 2008, 04:56 PM
Thanks Yonnee

My car is white so I am going to paint the trailer with a couple of coats of White Hammertone. I don't know about the silicone content as it appears that White Hammertone does not have the Hammered effect? However, I'll still dedicate a spray gun, thinners, etc. to the project as I also plan to make some racks and cage and paint them in a contrasting Light Grey Hammertone.

Yonnee, Going back a while, you started a trailer thread named, 'Trailer build II . . .The long haul'. Did you ever finish that trailer or can we all still eargerly await its progress? The 'blow by blow' description and photos have been a great help so far.

Cheers, bazzmate.

Yonnee
5th Dec 2008, 11:44 PM
White Hammertone...?? Can't say I've come accross it. Hammertone I think was originally a brand name, back when I was working for a paint manufacturer. But most came to know the hammered metal finish paint by that brand, even if it was made by someone else. Now the word is used for most brands of that type of finish. Bit like the Yanks calling a vacuum cleaner a Hoover...

As for the trailer... what you see as the last installment is pretty much how it sits in the shed still. It was put on the back-burner while I made Waldo's Dusty enclosure frame, and now I'm in the middle of another trailer for another bloke, make some steel wood racks for Waldo's shed, make a gate frame for a mates Mum, as well as trying to tile my pergola deck, play cricket, strip a rolled Pajero wreck, swap an engine from the same Pajero, fix a rusty section in my Dad's trailer...

Yonnee
5th Dec 2008, 11:50 PM
Oh... If you're going to paint the trailer white, get a paintable sealing compound, such as caulking, and go over all the joins before you paint the top coat. The ugliest thing on a white trailer is rust runs where the water gets between two mated surfaces that don't have paint between them (where the guards meet the sides, etc.), and where it runs out leaves a rusty stain.

Bazzmate
6th Dec 2008, 01:28 AM
The link below is where I got the idea that 'Hammertone' came in White. (You gotta love the internet & google)

http://www.hammeriteproducts.com.au/colour.aspx

Even though the trailer will live in the garage, that's a good point about the extra painting of the joints - thanks

I'm also thinking of putting in a timber floor. I'll slap some bitumous paint on the top of the chassis before laying the floor boards too but what I was wondering though is (here's the dumb question. . .), if anyone knows what the best type of screw I should use to fix down the floor? . . . stainless steel or galvanised? Does it matter what type of screw goes into steel? I don't know if electrolysis comes into play here. Like I said earlier, I'm new to metalwork.

Thanks everyone for your help.
Cheers

Yonnee
6th Dec 2008, 10:46 AM
One suggestion I'd like to make here. If your chassis is manufactured from RHS or SHS (square or rectangular tubing), rather than screwing into the tubing, which can then allow moisture to enter the tube, weld in some addition cross rails on your chassis in angle iron. This allows you to fix a timber floor to the angle with a much larger variety of fixing harware, be it cup-headed coach bolts, counter sunk bolts or screws, etc., rather than self tappers.

Yonnee
6th Dec 2008, 11:43 AM
The link below is where I got the idea that 'Hammertone' came in White. (You gotta love the internet & google)

http://www.hammeriteproducts.com.au/colour.aspx

Even though the trailer will live in the garage, that's a good point about the extra painting of the joints - thanks

Cheers

Hammerite is another Brand Name. The 'hammered metal finish' paint they show is what's generally refered to as "Hammertone". The four smooth finish paint colours they show will most likely be the same paint with the same properties, without the additive that gives the 'hammer' effect.

With any the 'hammered metal finish' paint, the thicker the coat, the better the hammered effect. And that doesn't mean laying it on till it runs, it means less thinning. If you're going to spray it, try and get a gun with as a big a nozzle size as possible.

tanii51
14th Dec 2008, 10:51 AM
i use all of the above in one form or an other except i use a cup wire brush on an angle grinder first to remove rust******* be careful full safety requirements .gloves FULL FACE protection heavy clothes etc*****. a 100 mm angle grinder will do the job the 9 inch one is scary. treat it all with some form of rust convertor, seal all joins ( sides etc ) then double check you have got them all cos it will show the rust in a few days then prime ( i use a 2 pack primer i got from an industrial paint place it doesnt have any identification i think it was decanted from a larger container but it works well ). one problem i have is getting all the edges on sheet metal all primed and painted i seem to miss bits easily so maybe do them first .

bobsreturn2003
24th Mar 2009, 02:21 PM
tried some spray on zinc epoxy but it rusted through very quickly . will try an oxide primer ,and see how that goes , always knocking paint off . should have got it galvanized , when new i guess . cheers bob