A Hercus owners register??

[neksmerj]

Since there seems to be a lot of interest lately from Hercus owners,
one of our members, bitza500, thought a register of Hercus lathe owners, would be a good idea.

I also think it is a good idea, so I'll start the ball rolling to the gauge interest.

Basically, lathe info can now submitted online within this forum
Information could then be exchanged between members, to the benefit of all.

What do you reckon fellas, see any problems?

Ken

[Big Shed]

Ken, I am not a hercus owner, and probably won't ever be (not smart enough!)

In addition to your circular, could I suggest a new feature of this forum? There is now the facility to set up groups, called Social Groups, under User CP. You could set up a Hercus Owners Group and invite all Hercus Owners to join this group. If nothing else it would make it very easy to contact all Hercus Owners via this group.

Fred

[Retromilling]

Since there seems to be a lot of interest lately from Hercus owners,
one of our members, bitza500, thought a register of Hercus lathe owners, would be a good idea.

I also think it is a good idea, so I'll start the ball rolling to the gauge interest.

Basically, I envisage a pre-prepared form being sent out to interested members, whereby the details can be filled in and sent back.

Information could then be exchanged between members, to the benefit of all.

What do you reckon fellas, see any problems?

Ken
I see a lot of potential problems , like list could get sold to criminals , spamers , advertising agencies, etc.
Why don't you start the ball rolling by posting your Name & address and the model lathe you own? It is no different to what you are suggesting.
I'm sure your heart is in the right place but I personally don't think it would be very popular .

[pipeclay]

I see a lot of potential problems , like list could get sold to criminals , spamers , advertising agencies, etc.
Why don't you start the ball rolling by posting your Name & address and the model lathe you own? It is no different to what you are suggesting.
I'm sure your heart is in the right place but I personally don't think it would be very popular .


Not really sure how you can be so paranoid about some type of refference to owners of hercus lathes or in general any machine tools.
If some how there were these criminals spammers or advertising agencies that concern you wouldnt they allready have a list of owners ,you would only have to read the posts or threads to get a register of whos got what.(I just think its funny)

In regards to your thoughts Ken I would think it would be quite advantagous to some members who have either a limited knowledge of the Hercus wether that be from a repair or maching view.
I understand that the basics of maching are the same irraspective of the type of machine.
But there are times when you may wish to ask a question solely based on Hercus machines.
Just my thoughts and I would be happy to register my machine details.

[jmk89]

Not really sure how you can be so paranoid about some type of refference to owners of hercus lathes or in general any machine tools.
If some how there were these criminals spammers or advertising agencies that concern you wouldnt they allready have a list of owners ,you would only have to read the posts or threads to get a register of whos got what.(I just think its funny)
.

I tend to agree with you pipeclay - we should be a little realistic about these kinds of concerns.

Having said that, I am a member of the NSW Peugeot Club and some Egyptian guy has got hold of the membership list and every now and then rings to ask if I know of any old Pugs for sale - apparently the 504 is still the mainstay of the Cairo taxi fleet and they buy up any old 504 they can for spare parts to keep the fleet going (even though most parts are still available ex-factory from France). So far they have just been an irritation, but I wonder whether they will be organising theft rings next. :o

Even then, I can't see a Hercus lathe theft ring (except if it is by rival owners seeking difficult-to-source parts...:~ I suspect that the real result willl be that people will get together to make joint orders for small production runs of parts rather than trying to heist each other's machine..

[Retromilling]

Not really sure how you can be so paranoid about some type of refference to owners of hercus lathes or in general any machine tools.
If some how there were these criminals spammers or advertising agencies that concern you wouldnt they allready have a list of owners ,you would only have to read the posts or threads to get a register of whos got what.(I just think its funny)

In regards to your thoughts Ken I would think it would be quite advantagous to some members who have either a limited knowledge of the Hercus wether that be from a repair or maching view.
I understand that the basics of maching are the same irraspective of the type of machine.
But there are times when you may wish to ask a question solely based on Hercus machines.
Just my thoughts and I would be happy to register my machine details.

It was just my opinion there is no need to throw around insults .
You are welcome to put your name and address and a list of what you own on any list you like but don't try to brow beat others into your way of thinking .

[pipeclay]

Sorry if you felt offended (not sure where the insult is).

I dont think that anyone who would be interested in a register would be willing to supply their address or phone no or contact details on an open register.I know I wouldn't.

To have a list of members with the model of there machines and acessories they may have,maybe usefull ,9If only to ask how beneficial they are or how to use them or if possible to hire or borrow to get some idea of them prior to a possible purchase)

Once again I appoligise if you felt offended but still think the worry is funny.

[neksmerj]

Dear Hercus owners.

I've had a number of private messages, and judging by the negative feelings expressed here, the Hercus Register idea is off for now.

The idea was simply to keep a private, closed list of Hercus owners, and shared only between Hercus owners, allowing members to freely exchange ideas, questions, problems, parts etc.

I guess all of the above can be done right here on the forum.

I respect everyone's concerns, so that's the end of it.

Ken

[damian]

There is a south bend lathe group on yahoo, in fact there are two. Not particularly active but they exist and you don't have to do anything but join.

Just a thought.

[bitza500]

As I was the one who offered my services to get a register going I think some people have realy got the wrong idea

My main aim was to get your user name which is already on the forum what year is the Hercus and the Serial number

As far as Name and addresses goes that is not needed I am solely after Hercus 9" owners who would not mind being on a register so we can date what machines is in the forum group serial numbers to find the oldest to the newest plus be able to email the person who may have more experience about Hercus problems plus a parts register as someone is always chasing parts and if there is a register with just a side note stating what parts you have spare to sell It could be a great benefit as I know there are groups in America who have there own website and they have pictures of the lathe and their workshop and plus a little note about themselves

Now can this be harmfull as it is only to find what Hercus's are left and to help each other as some may have had a Hercus for 20 years and know all the problems and how to fix certain problems plus make a register with user name and date of buld and go from there as there is quite a few Hercus owners and to get a Register so people can ask specific questions to another hercus Owner with the same age Machine as I have a 1941 and a 1948 scattered around the garage and I will need help when it comes to assembling as both Machines are so different

Please let me know as I will gladly set up the register and if you have parts for sale can put that on the register as well and it is still using the Forum username just doing a headcount and age of Machines

all the best Derek

There is no invasion of privacy if you are only giving your user name serial number year of build and any parts for sale plus KNOWLEDGE which is needed a lot when rebuilding a old lathe so does this sound better as your user name is already on the forum and serial number and year is hardly invasion of privacy it is just a group of Hercus owners who want to see who has what and a picture and if you have parts lying around

[bitza500]

Well after reading all the responses I will write in my self what I mean about a register
bitza500 Hercus 1948 serial 4891
bitza500 Hercus 1941 Serial VB316

Now this is all I mean basic no intrusions no privacy invasions just Forum User name year and Serial Number

Now I may get emails about my 1941 Hercus with the weird serial Number or the low number

Or I could list spare parts which someone may be chasing

Is their a INVASION OF PRIVACY if all Hercus Owners were to send me their user name year and Serial Number as probably half the forum alredy know who has what but I want to do it to keep the poor old Hercus from disappering and to use it to help other Hercus Owners

Can you see who I am and were I live ???

This is just a BASIC register and nothing more

I hope people can see that what I want to do has probably be written by the owners when on the Forum and just gives a little insight into what age the Lathe is and what condition as both of mine are splattered around my garage in the process of restoring
So who is next to put their User Name and year and serial number of their HERCUS 9" ??????????????????????

all the best Derek

[brittleheart]

Well said Bitz.
You have explained the benefits and objectives clearly.
You may even have stirred the blood of many "gunna" Hercus project owners.
Be happy to provide details, just have to clean the bed to read the numbers first.
Peter

[footz]

Well bitz how about if we just have a thread for Hercus owners. Now being the proud owner of one I can see I need lots of info. Or I can just keep putting up topics here and let all look at it. I have no problems having my lathe details up here as comparing notes is very handy.
All the best
Gene

[neksmerj]

Bitza500,

For your records

User name-Neksmerj

Type- 9" Hercus model AR
Serial No-13328
Mfg year-1973
Colour- green

Condition- under restoration

Ken

[bitza500]

Not trying to be Big Brother I was hoping to find out about all the Hercus Lathes that Forum owners have as like myself and others when you rebuild a Hercus you can get stuck and as I have been doing mine for 10Months and still not going
I would like to just have a list of Hercus owners and their year and condition of the Lathe just as Ken has done as while Gene has a point we have just a Hercus thread this would not work
To do it properly you would have to start up a Hercus Club which would require a lot more than my original intention as Hercus has no History on our Lathes parts are getting scarce and just to be able to email another Hercus Owner with the same model and year? to ask for information as I am chasing parts and falling on deaf ears as either nobody wants to sell their spares or there is none left
Mick Moyles I emailed and asked if they 10 aprrox parts REPLY NOT A ONE YET as they were getting more in
Newmac in Bayswater in Victoria only have new parts or S/H lathes

So where do we go from there I have heard of Hercus Lathes being found at tips and scrapmetal yards

I just do not believe that if you use your user name ( not traceable)
state the year model and condition of your lathe (who else would be interested ?)
And if you know of places where Hercus parts S/H can be found

I brought into Australia over 20 boxes of Southbend 9" lathe Parts all the parts I bought interchanged UNTIL IT CAME TO THE LOCATION OF THE TAPERED PIN

As I have 3 complete carraige assemblies not one of the levers or handles that used tapered pins would be the same it looks like they must have drilled and reamed on the machine ????

As I have 3 assemblies in bits I went through all the items and the TAPERED PIN was in a different position on all 3 full assemblies

Who would have known as the 1941 Tassie Devil VB316 has the crudest drilling and reaming of tapered holes I have ever seen even the pins were different

The South Bend was by far the best fitting of the 3 assemblies as non of this hit the dags off with a grinder all well machined and clean castings

Which leads me to the next THREAD

Who would buy a SouthBend Lathe Part if they could not get a Hercus Part as they are all nearly NOT AVAILABLE as the Yanks are gutting 9" lathes on a daily basis and if we had a Register we could discuss such ideas of bringing in South Bend Parts ??
Or I have a Toolmaker who has given me free rein to make anything so long as I am not disturbing his work
The common Back gear broken teeth the large gear is available from Mick Moyles but the small one bad luck you buy a back gear with a broken large gear and Mick can supply a replacement gear ring
But not for the small gear which I am looking into making myself and the new gear will be a press fit after machining and maybe weld after that as I am about to cut up a back gear to see how they are made as I think they are pressed and welded

OK I have gone on long enough is there any other willing Hercus Owners want to start a register up and see if we can find the oldest to the newest HERCUS 9" lathe
and only User name is needed noreal names as it is to our benefit to stick together to keep the Hercus 9" alive and maybe find more on the way

I end my case if you can see a problem in this basic Register bar that it is only Hercus 9" lathes let me know as I am always wanting answers and who do you ask and is it the same model as the 1941 and the 1948 could not be so much different in every aspect

The Floor is OPEN
all the best Derek

[pipeclay]

Mine is a 'C' with an 'A' Quick Change, Model No 11195 (1967),Good condition,full set of gears for metric and imperial,many accessories,Grey in colour.

[bitza500]

Hi on the Forum, As you can see by both Ken and Pipeclay this is exactly what I was talking about

We have no rubbish just you own a Hercus the serial number the year ? and condition and plus any special little add ons you have done to improve your Hercus 9" and I will give it 6months or so and then I will then start a new Thread with all the Hercus Owners and their machines so anybody can ask another Hercus owner a question without having to wait for a Answer

The Serial Number and you user name is the main requistes if you have a date great like Pipeclay he has described all the lathe plus all the extras which is a bonus as how many times have you been stuck with cutting metric or Imperial threads ???

Drummond has the list of years of Manufacturer so we can add that in

But non of this BIG BROTHER that Ken had from a few Forum Members

Remember these lathes are minimum 30years old approx and are very scarce and with luck may end up finding a lathe for parts that could be a worthwhile bonus or like I have found out there are a lot of old 9" lathes still sitting under Schools or in the back shed as the owners do not think they are worth much and are to bloody heavy to get rid off

That is how I got mine the old bloke had no way of moving it and $300 later a complete running lathe sat on my bench

My 1941 Tassie Devil VB316 was the same the cost from Tassie to Victoria was to expensive but I waited 6 months and the owner had to come to Victoria to pick up some parts and it was only 10 minutes away from my House so he delivered it to my door

I know of 2 people who have 6 Hercus 9" lathes between them but as grotty as they are and with all the latest machines around them they are not for sale as they are way to handy

So I will stop bitchin when you Hercus owners put up you hand and let me know not write anymore than what I have stated if you send me more details they will be discarded as this is just a Hercus 9" Owners Help me out list and nothing more

all the best Derek
A4891
VB316

[bitza500]

Hi all at the Forum, this is my third email today as I found a reply from Retrommilling that intruiges me
As you all by now know no personel details are required
All I want is your user name (NOT TRACEABLE)
the Year and Model (WHICH YOU HAVE PROBABLY GIVEN BEFORE )
The Serial Number (NOT TRACEABLE)
Year and Condition (WHO WOULD CARE)
And Any Mods or places were parts can be obtained
(ONLY HERCUS OWNERS WANT THAT )

So Retromilling please explain your reluctance ??
There are no names and addresses or Phone Numbers
All the details I want is readily available on the Forum anyway ( EXCEPT YOUR LATHE DETAILS )
I am Not Big Brother I just want to make a list of hercus Owners so we can HELP each other

If you can find a loophole let me know as all your details are on the Forum

Unless you are not prepared to help another Hercus owner with a Problem

Please email me and voice your negativity and what have I missed in protecting your true identity as the more we have the better the chance a rookie Hercus owner can find help

I have done all my Homework and found all the user names (which mean nothing to anybody else)
and to describe your lathe with serial number condition and age plus colour if original I cannot see that anybody could care less about all the info I want


Up to you just let me know what your problem is to this register
all the best Derek
VB316
A4891

[bitza500]

Hi Gene well a new Thread for Hercus Owners has be set by me but I will still be chasing all the details as I have setout as so far my 2 old Girls are Great Grand Mothers compared to the others

But remember only User name Serial No condition colour and any extras or mods

all the best Derek
VB316
A4891

[footz]

Type- 9" Hercus model AR
Serial No-9453
Mfg year-1964
Colour- blue similar to this - :wink:
All matching numbers
It has the 127 tooth gear and lots of others, I better see exactly what
In good condition but paint cracked and chipped.
Mcpersons badge on r/h leg
Twin pulleys on motor and top drive, smaller pulley appears to have been added on.
Slight rust on shiny bits, intend to polish it off?
Had a home made pump for cutting oil I removed it, was bolted onto bench not lathe.
Cross slide has the T slot option also original type cross slide
Knowledge? where is that on my lathe (joke)

[bitza500]

Hi gene, by chance do you want to sell the cross slide that has the T-Slots in it as I am chasing one to finish off my Hercus which has a 2" riser block underneath the Headstock giving me more options to make some money as I was disabled from Work in 2002 and my Father got the Lathe to give me a little interest but to build the toolpost assembly requires the T-Slot Crosslide as being machined a riser plate is fitted to the T-Slot Crosslide and new holes drilled to refit the original Top Crosslide as well as machining more T-slots in the riser plate as I have to lift the tool post holder 2" or 50MM approx and the t-Slot Crosslide works out to be the best spart to fix the situation as we can pin and screw the new plate on top without mucking about like we are doing now

So please give me a email to [email protected]
so we can discuss as to have both cross slides is unusual so I would say it would have been bought at a later date

But I am desperate as the only other step is to make a complete new Crosslide which I am able to do but the time to do it and my disability slows me down just a little so please let me know if you want to sell the crosslide ???

all the best Derek

[kats1719]

I Have a pattern for a T slot Cross slide from when i made mine you can borrow ti if you like

[bitza500]

Hi Chris, you have not put up your hand yet to the Register But I hope you will
As the very reason I am emailing now is someone has something that I need
Wouldn't it be nice to be able to email people who can help you out

That is what the Register is all about Owners helping owners ans Chris has done exactly that as I have been chasing a Cross Slide with T-Slots ever since I lifted the Headstock up 2" or 50MM

so Chris did you make the pattern ???
does it fit on the existing cross slide ?
or is it a complete crosslide built from Scratch ??

As I am not afraid of Big Brother I live in Croydon Victoria 3136
and my email is [email protected]
so if you can give me a email at home about the Crosslide as I am very curious as I was going to machine the end of my Cross slide in 2 places so that I can mount a plate the full length of the crosslisde redril to refit the Top Slide and machine out T-Slots on the other side as I saw a toolpost Holder on you Tube that has a Parting off tool upside down on the T-Slot side that worked brilliantly so give me a email and we go from there or FOOTZ let me know about your one as I have 2 lathes and want to build both the same
all the best Derek Chesworth
Now Big Brother knows who I am BIG DEAL

[kats1719]

Hi Derek yes i made the pattern up my self and yes it is a complete cross slidesee photos

[footz]

nah man kody pointed out they are very handy to have so Ill hang on to it. If you need dimensions I can measure it up. I am beginning to see the advantages of it already.

[bitza500]

Hi Chris, I see you live in Melbourne to as I live in Croydon are you close to me or would not like to say on the Forum
If I could borrow the T-Slot Crosslide I could then start making up a new one for my old girl give me a email at [email protected] so we can arrang pickup as I have a mate Workshop that has everything imaginable so I do not think it would take long
At Present I am housebound due to a very bad fall which is not good when you have wires in your spine sending impulses to your brain for pain relief
So Send me a email with where you live and will organise to pick it up and start asap on Monday I Hope and with luck will have it done by the end of the week

all the best Derek

[Brett C]

Some info that I have already posted with a bit more for 'registration'
Mine is a plain bearing Model 'B' in a very dark grey, standing on cast iron legs
Serial No B5540
Year 1956
It is stamped ‘BS’ at the tailstock end. (I did read somewhere that the ‘S’ indicates a ‘Special’ and wouldn’t have had a tailstock?? This may be one reason why the tailstock with the lathe is not matching numbers but several years older.)
It has a Mcphersons plate on the change gear cover and came with a bit of tooling including chucks, faceplates, dogs, a saddle stop, change gears and Brobo Waldren toolpost grinder.

The lathe has seen a lot of (ab)use and is now undergoing a slow restoration proceeding as I can find parts and solutions at reasonable prices

[pipeclay]

Not sure about the refference to the BS stamping mine is also stamped BS but my tailstock has the same numbers as everything else.

[Buncha]

Mine is stamped with Serial No. VB1096 with an oval stamp beside it with the letters RGE in it. There is no number that I can find anywhere on the tailstock, inside or out. It looks like it has earned its keep, with little TLC, since 1944.

It has a 3 jaw Bernerd chuck, lantern style tool holder & face plate. It is on the factory cast iron legs and has a splash tray. Under the grime it appears to be grey. The ways are badly worn, as is the underside of the tailstock.

[mob]

Mine is stamped AR9708 (1965?)
Tailstock stamped 9711
Mostly Blue
Virtually no accessories
Had a hard life, probably in a school - major parts are labeled
Has McPherson's badges and is also stamped BS
I will be looking for steadies, centres, faceplate, milling slide, etc

[brittleheart]

I have finally cleaned the number on the bed.
A5945 followed by RGE within a circle, any clues to what this means?
About 1957, dark grey colour. Model "A" with the usual wear on the slideway near the chuck.
Plain bearings seem OK, need a good cleanup. Have made a simple guard over the belts.
Has anyone gone to the expense of regrinding the ways? It would be interesting if is worthwhile.

I note there is some discussion about what oils to use on these lathes.
I get all these from a supplier in Dandenong (All things oil), available in 5L containers:
Spindle bearings: Renolin 32 (hydraulic oil), or Pneumatic tool oil (about 10 sae)
Slideways: Omniglide 68, or Staput 220. Both made specifically for slideways.

I am not to worried what goes into the spindle oilers, so long as they are full. And yes, I frequently get sprayed with oil each time I start the motor.

Regards, Peter.

[wannabe]

I think you will find the RGE within a circle is the stamp of the guy who inspected it. In yours and also my case that's R.G Excell. Have a look here for an example of the inspection sheet http://www.lathes.co.uk/hercus/page5.html . Note the signature and the description below the photo.

Thanks for the pointer on oils. I'll have a look at them. Haven't heard of them before.
I know what you mean about the spray of oil when you startup too.

[pipeclay]

I see the comments about a spray of oil when you start up,where exactly is this coming from and how much is there,sounds a bit unusual.

[wannabe]

Mine comes from the upper pulley spindle. I oil the four oiling points on it. The oil then seeps down the side of the large motor pulley and flings it out. I'm constantly wiping the excess oil off that pulley. Could have something to do with my theory that 'more oil is better than less' too. :D

I don't have belt guards on mine so there's nothing to stop it except of course when I'm in the way.

[pipeclay]

I thought it may have been coming from the headstock spindle,is the pulley side of your countershaft support badly worn,does the oil manage to get itself onto the pulley at all causing the belt to slip.

[wannabe]

I don't think the countershaft is badly worn. I think it's more a case of once you put oil it in there it's going to follow the path of least resistance back out. On the right hand side the oil gets on the shaft retainer but doesn't seems to fling. On the left side with the large flywheel it gets a bit of inertia behind it, tracks down the spokes and tends to initially fling a bit out.

Oil on the belts isn't a problem. It seeps out to the outside edge of the flywheel and either gets flung off or sits there and doesn't track onto the belt. I tend to wipe that flywheel down regularly to remove excess oil so that might help too.

I don't have belt guards on my lathe and can't understand some of the comments I have read about swarf and oil getting on the belts. It doesn't happen on mine. Both belts are dry and as clean as you could expect a belt to be.

[pipeclay]

Do you have any guarding over the Headstock pulleys at all,do you ever machine any material that throws off chips or are you only machineing slowly and have your swarf drop down to the lathe bed and tray or does it just come off in long spirals.

[wannabe]

The only guards on it are the two Bull gear guards. I think that's what they are called. When I first got it the guy didn't even have those installed to it because he couldn't be bothered finding a couple of screws. That looked a bit too dangerous even for me so I got those on.

I've had swarf coming off in chips, strings etc. It sprays to the rear, to the front and to the right but doesn't seem to go towards the left. Just thinking (dangerous I know) but I use a 6" 4 jaw all the time so I'm wondering if that's working as a deflector. Working on larger diameters whick I don't tend to do could cause the problem.

[brittleheart]

Hey guys,
I might have over stated the amount of oil spray, what I meant was that I probably use more than it needs. I use liberal amounts of the slideway oil over the leadscrew and rack, sticks like honey.
The other lathe I use is a Kerry 1324. This uses a staight gear oil (68 grade) everywhere. It has oil/grease nipples all over the place. I had to order a special oil pressure gun (from the same supplier), to lubricate properly. Works like a dream.
Peter

[Drummond]

Here we go.

My machine is a 16 speed plain bearing Model A , serial No 5809 (1956). An original reversing switch and McColl single phase motor are fitted. It came from a deceased estate and was in virtually new condition when I bought it in 1997. By virtually new, I mean that it was unworn, but the paint has suffered the usual crow's feet and chips. In fact, I had to remove the remnants of the original protective grease from the bed with deoxidene and fine steel wool.

Since then I have had to replace the belts, which died of old age.

It is fitted with late model fibreglass belt guards and sits on an original Hercus chip tray and cast iron legs. While this setup is rigid and takes up little floor space, the tray could profitably be four inches wider front and back. As it is, swarf gets dumped under your feet and behind the machine rather than in the tray.

Modifications are limited to a matching maroon bakelite knob fitted to the tailstock lever and small thumbscrews on the cross and topslide dials in place of the original setcrews. This allows the dials to be zeroed in an instant, eliminating mental arithmatic.

As well as three and four jaw chucks, drill chucks, catch plate, face plate, centres etc, I have a number of Hercus attachments. These are fixed and travelling steadies, a set of metric conversion gears, indexable saddle stop and milling slide. Unfortunatly I do not have a Hercus milling slide vise but have fitted a McGain vice whilst awaiting the genuine article. One will turn up at the right price eventually. An indexing attachment at the right price would be good too!

The saddle stop is complimented by a home made dial indicator holder much in the style of a micromer saddle stop. This provides indication of cutting depth when milling and spacing of grooves, etc.

Although I have the original lantern toolpost and a full set of Lock toolholders, I made a faithful copy of a Hercus non-indexing four way toolpost and prefer to use this for its increased rigidity. The difference when parting off is remarkable, particularly when a Lock S19 toolholder is used.

Other non-genuine bits include ER 16 and and ER 25 morse taper collet chucks and collets, purchased remarkably cheaply on Ebay. These are held with home made drawbars. While this setup does not allow a great length of stock to pass through the spindle it is OK for short work and accurate to less than a couple of tenths.

A posilock chuck and home made drawbar hold screwed end mills and slot drills.

The machine is a joy to use compared to the well worn ex-school Model C (serial no 10217) which proceeded it. No bed wear to be compensated for - it will turn to less than a thou in 10 inches without tailstock fiddling and after 11 years of moderate use feedscrew backlash is still within limits (15 thou cross slide, seven thou top slide).

Eat you hearts out!

Tony :D

[damian]

Ok here's my 2c. I've been sick but managed to drag myself out to the shed this am to get the number. It's off the id plate not the bed but I assume they are the same.

VBA 2024

I looked up the number range on a post here and it indicated 1948 ? Anyway it's a plain bearing model A with the small dials. I haven't set it up properly or checked it but it seems tight and straight. It's got some of the common problems, 3 jaw has been strained, the slides are slightly looser in the common travel areas, a few nicks in the bed under the spindle. The 4 jaw is sweet and it came with a faceplate, jacobs, couple of dead centers. The machine is generally in ok condition and will suit my purposes.

[bitza500]

Hi all you Hercus owners is this not the best idea out ? Just Hercus and Hercus problems plus I have had a few emails from people wanting to lend a hand with making special tools or other goodies we have now reached the Bakers Dozen
And Buncha another VB serial Number I am wondering if they were Victorian Barracks as RGE is Royal General Engineers ??????and Brett the Toolpost post Grinder how well does it work and what work do you use it for ???

At Present 75% of the Hercus owners are doing restorations including myself so this is where the site comes into action as what was the go with all these little headless screws, and springs of all odd shapes and sizes
Be warned if you do not have patience do not strip your apron apart as they are a little tricky and have some strange workings

So as we have plenty of people restoring anybody got spare parts or know of a place where you can find except USA as that is were I am buying more bitz for my modified 9" which is now a 13" swing

Buncha How did you get the year of build ???
as my one is VB316 and that is going on Drummond's Hercus Serial number list
Has anybody got that still as I would like to see how we fare with what we believe is the year of our lathes

Also on eBay is a Model A gearbox in Victoria starting price $61 not looked since

But keep the numbers and years coming and with luck we will make this site a better improved site just for us Hercus owners

all the best Derek bitza500
[email protected]

[Buncha]

Bitza500

As Wannabe says above, RGE is the mark of the guy who inspected it before it was sent from the factory.

The date I got from Drummonds list. Have no reason to doubt its accuracy.

Buncha

[Brett C]

Re Toolpost grinder.

I haven't used it at all, but it has certainly been well used. I believe that it was made specifically for the Hercus lathe - I have seen a couple come up on Ebay.

I am currently investigating having the ways ground as I have a fair bit of wear, particually on the saddle ways (up to 8thou).

[bitza500]

Hi Brett, my Mate who is a toolmaker may be able to fix the grinder for you but he would have to see it first
He lives in Kilsyth and works partime at home this is were all my parts are getting the once over so if you want to have him look at it just email me and we can go from there
all the best Derek bitza500
[email protected]

[Buncha]

Brett,

I would be interested to know what the grinding of the ways would cost. Mine are probably too far gone, and I would be "over capitalising" but you never know.

Buncha

[Brett C]

Derek,

Sorry I didn't word the post very well the toolpost grinder is fine, I think it just needs a new belt.

Buncha
THe inital quote I got for grinding the Hercus' ways was $550. Which is temptingly economical I thought. That included fitting the saddle and tailstock. the only catch is it is in NSW. I just have to find the money now!

[kats1719]

Have you asked hercus for a quote just to grind the ways and saddle I know that they will rebuild the 260 lathe the older hercus tha the same way pattern and they did them about 10 years ago the other options is accumat Australia PTL LTD in bayswater i have had work done by them in the past and have been very happy with there work

[Brett C]

Kats1719

I called Hercus on your suggestion; to regrind the bed only - $380. To do the saddle - approx $200. I forgot to ask about the tailstock, and I don't think the prices included scraping. Still have to get it interstate.

Acumat said they could do it, but with set up costs for such a small machine it might run to $10000 (yes that many zeros!!!???). Not really interested I'd say.

Brett

[damian]

Why do you need to scrape it ? Actually why do you need to grind the saddle ?

If the bed is straight the machine will cut straight. Grinding it properly will make it straight as. $380 is a great price, but your real problem will be refitting the spindle afterwards. It's got to be bang on parrallel with the bed. Bang on.

[kats1719]

I am shore that hurcus will get it right as for getting it there take the time to go to the borosa valley is that an excuse or what

[damian]

Yeah but does the $380 include removing/refitting the headstock ?

[kats1719]

I don't think so hurcus charge $ 3200 to do a refit on the 260 thy will do a refit on the older lathes as well but i don't know the price most parts are in fact interchangeable as the bed ways are identical http://www.hercus.com.au/260-metal-lathe-refurbishment/

[footz]

mmm removing and refitting the headstock. I haven't moved mine but I thought they where on the V bed and they could be removed and they would go back in the correct position?. If this is not the case I will not be undoing mine then. I have started repainting bits and in the next few months I was going to do the bed and headstock. Now I am not sure if I can disturb this. Should this area be left alone?

[kats1719]

You have to be careful you don't nick or bruise the mating surfaces but it is not a big problem just as long as you take measurements as to it exact position the head mets the bed

[Brett C]

I'm no expert on this, but I understand the scaping is just to fine tune the finish of the ground areas, and in the case of the saddle the surfaces contact correctly (too much contact causes sticking?).

The saddle needs grinding becausse as it was wearing the ways, it was developing some steps etc. If you just installed it on a straight ground bed I suspect if may rock and/or jam.

There is very little wear on the inner ways that the spindle and tailstock index on. The quotes are all based on the bed being delived bare, the headstock is easily removed and indexes positivley on the inner V way

Brett

[damian]

If you have a look at your 9" hercus you'll see the bed extends the full length of the machine. When tehy grind it they will flatten straighten and smooth the whole bed, including the bit the headstock sits on. Any reference marks etc will be lost. The current mating of the headstock and bed will be lost.

The headstock engages the bed, but it's alignment both in vertical and horizontal planes determine how straight the lathe cuts. It has to be absolutely bang on. There is no garantee it's bang on now. It's easy enough to sort when it comes back, but it's time consuming.

If you do get it ground ask how much hardening is.

I'm prepared to believe a saddle could be so badly damaged it doesn't sit securely on the bed, but I've never seen it. If a ground surface needs hand scraping to clean it up you need a new grinder. I am prepared to believe the casting could move after grinding but that requires a second grind, not scraping.

[bitza500]

After reading the thread on the worn lathe bed
1.Is it worth having it done
2. what else has to be machined
3. Lookat the 10 lathes in SA as it wouls be cheaper to buy a better machine as yours must be flogged to death
My 1941 VB316 the bed is in very good condition
I suggest looking atthe 10 in SA and then sell the parts off your old lathe to recoup some of the Money as by your description
Your lathe is stop of the scrap pile if the bed is so bad I have see plenty of Hercus Lathes so you have to scrape the gunk off and the bed is still good and these are early 1950's which both run collets and used everyday plus has all the paperwork from when it was sold
So weigh up your options as buying a Hercus in Good condition for $1,000 is good value then just strip your worn Lathe and advertise the parts as there are people chasing
parts all the time me included

I reckon you could make your money back on bits and see how you go with the SA 10 lathes ???

all the best Derek

[damian]

But there is no garantee the SA lathes are any good.

Anyway the first thing I'd be doing is sticking in a bit of pipe and making a cut and going along it with a digital caliper or mic and seeing what's what. Better to prove you've got a problem before going off to fix it. Post the results here and we'll have a chat about it.

[jmk89]

I agree - suck it and see!

Once you know if you have a problem and what that problem is, you are a long way towards knowing how to solve it!

[Brett C]

Lots of imput here, maybe we should start a thread on worn lathe beds?

From my calculations the 8 thou wear in the saddle ways will give less than0002" variation over the leangth of a cut. There is very little wear in the tailstock ways so I don't think accuacy is the main issue (How accurate can we expect a Hercus to be?). I am more wondering about chatering developing, as one can't set the saddle very tight without it binding towards the tailstock

thoughts or experiances?

[beetle]

HI Brett try turning a bar say 12 inches long between chuck and tail stock centre.On my 1975 old school lathe i can take a cut say in 3or4 places anlong the bar between centre and chuck, my sizes wouldnt vary more than a .0015 from one end to the other on the same setting.

[sgtfoxhound]

Hi

just a quick one , where do i sign up ,you could include a "parts for sale and wanted" section

adrian

[email protected]

[allterrain50]

seems like a good idea, I have just picked up a c class (C5843) in working order and would like to register with you. I'm new to lathe work so can't contribute much to the conversation at this stage but I'll be watching all posts for useful information.
I'll be busy refurbishing for some time and doing lots of reading.
Mal

[nickeng]

Hercus register is a great idea, mine is a restored 1965 AR serial no 11226, it is a great little lathe and has done heaps of work over many years, sometimes more than it was originally designed for, but with care, came through with flying colours.
I am hoping someone might be able to help me with a copy of the original imperial thread chart that came with the lathe, showing gear sizes on the stud gear, screw gear and lever positions on the quick change box. I have all the info & gears for metric but nothing for imperial, - cheers - Mike

[bitza500]

[quote=nickeng;884401]Hercus register is a great idea, mine is a restored 1965 AR serial no 11226, it is a great little lathe and has done heaps of work over many years, sometimes more than it was originally designed for, but with care, came through with flying colours.
I am hoping someone might be able to help me with a copy of the original imperial thread chart that came with the lathe, showing gear sizes on the stud gear, screw gear and lever positions on the quick change box. I have all the info & gears for metric but nothing for imperial, - cheers - Mike[/quote

Hi Mike,and welcome to the Register, when I started doing the Register I never thought we would get this far.
Are you chasing the original brass plate or just a copy of the gear setup ???

I have my brass plate off the gearbox and could scan it and send you a copy but I think the Hercus book of Turning has all the information I Think ??

if not let me know and I will scan the plate and send you a pic

Welcome No 41
all the best Derek bitza500

[nickeng]

[quote=nickeng;884401]Hercus register is a great idea, mine is a restored 1965 AR serial no 11226, it is a great little lathe and has done heaps of work over many years, sometimes more than it was originally designed for, but with care, came through with flying colours.
I am hoping someone might be able to help me with a copy of the original imperial thread chart that came with the lathe, showing gear sizes on the stud gear, screw gear and lever positions on the quick change box. I have all the info & gears for metric but nothing for imperial, - cheers - Mike[/quote

Hi Mike,and welcome to the Register, when I started doing the Register I never thought we would get this far.
Are you chasing the original brass plate or just a copy of the gear setup ???

I have my brass plate off the gearbox and could scan it and send you a copy but I think the Hercus book of Turning has all the information I Think ??

if not let me know and I will scan the plate and send you a pic

Welcome No 41
all the best Derek bitza500

[nickeng]

Thanks for the offer to scan your brass plate Derek, since I originally joined up in the forum I have managed to nut out, with the help of an old parts book, that if you have a quick change gearbox, which came with all Type A's,then all the gears you need for imperial screw cutting are 20 & 40 for the Stud gears, 80 for the idler & 56 for the screw gear. The rest is taken care of by the gearbox, it's been so long since I did any imperial screwcutting that I had completly forgotten the set up, most of the time the lathe just sits with the Metric configuration, that seemed to suffice for just about everything that I have needed, until now. Anyway, thanks again for the offer, Maybe I have helped some other poor soul, struggling to work out the gear settings for a quickchange box, - Mike

[glenn k]

my Hercus 9" has a serial number A6121 how old does that make it?

[aljunk]

Late 1957 vintage

al

[AlexN]

Hi All,

New to this neck of the woods, althought have been on the Michael Storer Wooden Boats one since beginning of '09.

My Hercus is ex UNSW Dept. Mech. Eng., acquired from EMCO just before they went into voluntary liquidation in Feb/March '08.

It is also now in a large number of bits :).

Quick summary: A-series 9 ", serial # A9424, circa 1956.

Long summary: 9 " A-series with "American" toolpost, imperial threading gearbox, powerfeed cross-slide & clutch on saddle apron, a few changewheels, tumbler reverse, 3-jaw scroll and 4-jaw ind. chucks (latter in rough cond'n), solid ground spindle bearings, no centres (got new ones for t-stock from Mick Moyle who also had some faceplates and some dogs which I hoovered up), grey in colour, bed dinged a bit around chuck area (forgot to take our keys out eh, boys & girls? ;), "H" drive unit with guards, lathe serial # A9424, circa 1956 (according to Steve Durden), 1/2 HP 3p "Cadet" motor, whole assembly mounted on original McPherson(?) cabinet and tray.

Replaced insertion rubber under cast "feet". Had a "fun" time dismantling saddle without breaking anything (but all still OK). Trying to decide whether to paint before re-assembling or just whack (so to speak) the whole thing back together without paint. Will probably replace 3p motor with 1HP 1p (or get an inverter).

Current machining is done on a Taig II micro-lathe and (manual) Taig micro-mill, plus heavy duty JET drill press.

[bitza500]

Hi All,

New to this neck of the woods, althought have been on the Michael Storer Wooden Boats one since beginning of '09.

My Hercus is ex UNSW Dept. Mech. Eng., acquired from EMCO just before they went into voluntary liquidation in Feb/March '08.

It is also now in a large number of bits :).

Quick summary: A-series 9 ", serial # A9424, circa 1956.

Long summary: 9 " A-series with "American" toolpost, imperial threading gearbox, powerfeed cross-slide & clutch on saddle apron, a few changewheels, tumbler reverse, 3-jaw scroll and 4-jaw ind. chucks (latter in rough cond'n), solid ground spindle bearings, no centres (got new ones for t-stock from Mick Moyle who also had some faceplates and some dogs which I hoovered up), grey in colour, bed dinged a bit around chuck area (forgot to take our keys out eh, boys & girls? ;), "H" drive unit with guards, lathe serial # A9424, circa 1956 (according to Steve Durden), 1/2 HP 3p "Cadet" motor, whole assembly mounted on original McPherson(?) cabinet and tray.

Replaced insertion rubber under cast "feet". Had a "fun" time dismantling saddle without breaking anything (but all still OK). Trying to decide whether to paint before re-assembling or just whack (so to speak) the whole thing back together without paint. Will probably replace 3p motor with 1HP 1p (or get an inverter).

Current machining is done on a Taig II micro-lathe and (manual) Taig micro-mill, plus heavy duty JET drill press.

Hi Alex and welcome to the Hercus Forum your rerial number dates it 1964 going by the Hercus Document that Drummond gladly passed on to the register

I have emailed Steve Durden to try and find out some more of the History but he is very slow in returning emails so will just have to wait

So welcome you are number 42 on the register

all the best Derek

[glenn k]

Does that mean I'm 41 or haven't I been counted? serial number A6121 No you missed me

[AlexN]

Hi Derek,

Thanks for the warm welcome :). 1964 makes more sense given the condition of the machine and its apparent provenance (assuming that UNSW had it from new).

#42 eh? Nice number, in a Hitchhiker's sort of way.

Cheers,
Alex.

[bitza500]

Does that mean I'm 41 or haven't I been counted? serial number A6121 No you missed me
Hi Glenn, sorry due to the messy paperwork I had forgotten what number I was up to
You are Number 43 the latest recruit into the Hercus Forum
I had 1 person written down and not put a number down so I stuffed up Sorry

As for the gouge marks does it now make more sense how it happened ????
as without the way felts it lets the swarf underneath the bed
and if the steel felt holder was damaged and just kept rubbing along the bed until someone took the felt and plates off which just made the carraige slowly get harder as the swarf builds up under the carraige

So you are offically Number 43 as I do not add 1 name at a time as it is a mess now and am trying to find a way to be able to have all the members on one list and not scattered

Let me know what you find when you get the carraige off

all the best derek bitza500

[ljvs1951]

Hi All just joined your forum. My Hercus is a C model serial no.cr14271 Dont know year of man. maybe you can help with this. At the moment I am working out how to use this as I am a retired carpenter looking for somthing different to spend some time on. I havent done much metal machining. I have a small farm and like to maintain my own machinery. I probably wont post often but hope to learn by other postings

[ljvs1951]

SORRY I should have said this in my first post but if anyone is interested I have copy of Hercus Text book of turning second edition 1970 It is in PDF format. I think it covers all models of 9" lathe If any one needs one I will email to them.

Regards Les ljvs1951

[neksmerj]

Hi Les,

According to our records, your Hercus was made in 1972, making it about 27 years old.

I'm sure Bitza 500 will ask for additional info etc to complete his records, so I will leave it up to him.

Congratulations,

Ken

[bitza500]

Hi Les, Congratulations as you are the 50th person to Register their lathe and Welcome to a distinguished group of Hercus fanatics.
If you have any problems, just ask a question and if this lot cannot help well you are in trouble

We have now 50 heads and probably hundreds of years experience between the lot of us
we have 75% doing either rebuilds or like Gene's and Ken's Lathe a Musuem piece as a lot are restoring to their original condition

If you have any problems or need any parts let us know as I have THE HIPPY a 70+ parts maker with Hercus gears and other parts I do the wrecing to keep the group with parts to finish their machine off
So if you need parts email me at home otherwise it clogs up the Forum
Congratulations and Welcome again

all the best Derek [email protected]

bitza500

[Greg Hansen]

Hi guys, as a new owner of a Hercus AR on Vancouver Island in Canada I was really pleased to come across this list. I look forward to learning a lot from browsing your posts as I'm new to metalworking, and the Hercus is pretty much unknown in these parts. Funny though, Hercus must have shipped a bunch of the machines to western Canada at some point because there are at least 2 more here on the Island and another over in Vancouver.

Anyway, mine is AR8312 V and has the RGE-in-an-oval stamped on the ways next to the serial number.

Greg Hansen
Victoria BC, Canada

[bitza500]

Hi Greg, and welcome and congratulations on owning a Hercus the fourth one in Canada so far
We have 2 other owners in Canada but why have 1 Hercus when you can have as much fun with 2 RIGHT Al???

So far we have not discovered the reasoning as to why Canada Schools chose the Hercus in Australia to the South Bend in that other Country but am still trying to find out
As In the very early years the Original MAN Fred Hercus offered British Migrants a cheaper price on a Hercus if they left their old lathe back in England

How Canada was won over I have yet to find out but can you enlighten me on how or where you obtained the old girl from, as not having much information as to why the Hercus ended in Canada and not yet finding the right website to ask in the Education Department over there if anybody can still remember

Main things between Hercus and South Bend is the Angle of the gears which I have been trying to discover the original facts
As we know Fred was not impressed with the Gears on the South Bend which had a Pressure angle of 14.5 Fred increased the hercus to 20PA which made a stronger gear
The one point if buying American parts
All the gears interchange but when combined the gear train is noisier due to the 2 different angles and the South bend gear will wear out quicker than normal


But welcome we now have 51 heads + more than able minds who will give you the best advice as to any question you want to ask as that is why I started this as I had a hercus and no one to ask well we all have our little prides of joy and we hope to maybe see a picture of the lathe and any History retaining to the lathe

As for the RGE in a semi Circle that is the approval stamp from the person who tested the machine
So Welcome to the group and ask all you like
all the best Derek
bitza500

[aljunk]

Hi Greg, Nice to have another "local" Hercus guy here! I inherited a Hercus a few years ago and recently bought a second one from a guy here in Pr. George. It was more like "rescued" one from the guy......some people shouldn't own machines!! I'm just putting all the pieces back together after a complete strip n paint with new bearings etc. Currently working on making some new gears ro replace the 5 with broken teeth.
Would love to see some pics of yours, I guess it's original color would have been battleship grey? My first machine is from the 70's and is green but the one I just bought is older, early 60's, with the grey. Doing the restoration I wanted to match the original colors. Can you tell me about colors where the Hercus name is cast in at the tail stock end, is it all grey or is there some hi-lite color used?
What kind of shape is yours in? What are your plans for it, will it be a workhorse or a putterers (is that a real word? lol) toy?
I'm not sure what I will do with this second Hercus when it's done as space in the home shop is becoming a premium. It has the a factory cabinet which my doesn't but is the short bed (same as yours) but the 1at one is and 'ARL' which has a longer bed.
Well enuf for now, look forward to hearing more from ya Greg.

al

[mgtoolmaker]

Can you add my name to the list. I have a Hercus "O" milling machine with serial number OLM-478. It is complete with horizontal and vertical attachments and came with the dividing head. It is a metric machine and in good order. Currently getting mods to include star / delta wiring to motor and then a VSD for single phase input
regards
mgtoolmaker

[bitza500]

Hi mg, and welcome you being Number 52 on our slowly expanding list of Hercus owners
You are the 4th Mill owner and probably half the owners would love to have a old Hercus Mill ME included
Can you give us any history of the machine or what you use it mainly for pleasure or work as many a Hercus is still being used in the Machine shops of Australia

How do you go chasing parts as with few on our list means that parts might be a bit scarce ????
If you could post a picture of the old girl to show her off would be appreciated

all the best and welcome again Derek

[mgtoolmaker]

Hello Derek,
From what I understand it was sold ne into a QLD State School and stayed there until a workshop refurbishment when it was upgraded. I purchased it from a dealer. The serial number OLM-478, which is stamped on just about everything indicates it is late 70's early 80's and a metric machine. The long travel leadscrew was quite damaged when I got it but has now been repaired. The machine has original paint and transfers and little if any wear on the slides. It is in my home workshop, current project is a clock and will be followed by a steam engine of some kind. I have a lathe and am a toolmaker by trade so I tend to make the unique stuff, even if it is a reverse engineer and make by others. So far, I have not had to send any work out but time is always an issue. I have a photo in another thread started by surfinev on his mill purchase. I will put an up to date photo in a few weeks on this thread when the mill is complete with motor and VSD.
regards
MG

[bitza500]

Hi mg, these VSD units are starting to become a common thing what are your experiences with making or buying parts to build or anything that can give us 240volt owners a insight to upgrade to 3 phase as the 3 lathes I have wrecked for selling spares all were 3 phase and as shortly the garage may get a few more added machines like 2 big lathes and a Milling Machine which I will get to see tommorow but any info on the Mills and the VSD units would be gladly welcome

all the best Derek
bitza500

[mgtoolmaker]

Firstly, I am no electrical guru but the 3ph motor I have is star wound. First step is I am having it changed to delta wound and that will allow the VSD to work and convert the 240 input to 415 output. Some of the larger 3ph motors are star and delta wound to reduce starting current draw. The modification I am told is relatively easy to do if you know what you are doing. But it seems to be a case of if you know what you are doing you do not need to ask anyone. I would suggest in the interest of safety, that the work be carried out by a licenced electrical repairer, the cost is between $70-$100. The VSD you purchase needs to be sized to the motor and one size does not fit all. I will most probably use a Allan Bradley / Rockwell unit as I have access to support from some of my controls buddies. Do your homework with the supplier, look up the internet for local representatives. Buying off flea bay may not be the best value option, be careful. Again, unless you are licenced sparky, you then need to change the wiring on the machine and get a certificate of electrical compliance as I will be doing. I have access to a very good ex SEC electrical fitter who has the smarts to do more than just change light fittings. Always amend the wiring diagram to reflect any changes. Making mechanical parts are another matter, I will discuss in another post.
regards
mgtoolmaker

[bitza500]

Hi mg, My eldest daughter who is 26 is a fully qualified Sparky but amazingly she can do 3 phase blindfolded
as she has only done 3 phase repair work for her Company she works for and only did 240 volt at trade school, and I asked her about the VSD and it was like talking another language My big mate his neighbour is the same as he just got retrenched after 22years and knows zilch about wiring 240 Volts or these VSD units as I am wondering if there is such a unit that can run 3-4 machines out of 1 VSD unit ???
I have done 240 volts stuff for over 30 years but asa the lathes I have been buying to strip for parts they are all 3 phase ,plus as a Milling Machine is on the way and another bigger lathe,I have been asking about these units
The Majority said just get 3phase from the street but cost wise is a problem for me at any time
Can you ask you Electrical mates about just 1 VSD unit to run 3-4 machines as 3 phase is a foreign language to me and not had much luck in finding anything that says yes or No to a multi connected VSD

all the best Derek

[mgtoolmaker]

Derek,
The short answer is yes and also no. For background, the applications that I have worked with tend to have either -

a) one drive for each motor such as steel rolling mills and moving industrial plant

b) one drive for a number of identical motors that need control at the same time such as an extremely large gantry crane.

The most number of drives and motors in combination that I have had to manage the engineering of is 120 drives for 120 motors and they all needed to talk to each other. The most number of motors with one drive has been 8 and they were all identical and all operated at the same time. My understanding is that you don't mix motor sizes with a common drive and that they all work at the same time, not individually or somewhere in between.

Unfortunately there is no cheap way to do it, a VSD for a .37kw will start at about $240 + any mods to include delta wiring if it is not star and delta. A VSD for drives over 100kw can be up to$25k!!! Consider a single small VSD for each motor, it may be the cheapest option for the fractional sizes on most domestic scale equipment. I know of others who have found a 3ph generator is the best way to go and forget the single phase mods or wiring from the street.

You need to engineer the most cost effective solution for you and what you have. I am not being cruel but you will have to spend money somewhere and time to work out what is best and I am not sure the required detail is easy to transfer to an interest group such as this forum. I have seen the 'cheap' capacitor start mods (where the phases are shifted) that do nothing but introduce vibration and are simply not worth the effort and potential damage to the workpiece.

So in summary, I would strongly suggest unless you are able to engineer a solution it is highly unlikely that a single VSD to service many possible options would be cost competitive relative to a number of smaller lower cost VSD's used as individual drives. I would not mix, match or select a drive without using an applications specialist who knows the characteristics of the motors and possible drives.
regards
MG

[blackfrancis]

Anyone got an idea how much a single to 3 phase VSD for use on the 9" would cost?

[blackfrancis]

Seams you answered before I asked MG :)

Any suggestions on where to buy or look for a VSD for a fractional hp motor?

[neksmerj]

The cost will be next to nix from your sports store.

I just missed out, by one day, on scoring a second hand tread mill being chucked out from my local sports store. The store owner tells me second hand units have virtually no value and finish up in the scrap bin at the rate of about one a month.

With a tread mill motor and built in controls, you get a really nice variable speed drive.
Not sure about the horse power, that would need to be checked out.

Ken

[blackfrancis]

Any idea what type of motors they have Ken? D.C. I guess?

[neksmerj]

BF,

I shall investigate tomorrow, leave it with me.

Ken

[phelum]

Hi,

I'd like to add myself to the Hercus register. Late last year I got an old Model C (#1408) and it is now almost complete.

The main bit I need now is a flat main belt. I think the dimensions are 825x25x5. Does anybody know where I can source such a belt ? A friend suggested I try a car timing belt and run it inside out. I would like a continuous belt rather than one I have to sew or staple together.

I'm in Sydney and have checked Mick Moyles.

Thanks,

[allterrain50]

Like yourself one of my machines is an early model flat belt drive. I was at cbc bearings the other day and they had a timing belt 840*20 which should do what you want. I'm going for the stiched leather myself.
Mal

[bitza500]

Hi Steven, and welcomeas you are No 54 to our growing list of owners so welcome and if in doubt ask as the greymatter on this register can solve all hercus problems and if they cannot well it cannot be done

As for the Timing belt My mates (my old lathe VB316) has a Holden jackaroo Timing belt cut and joined with the correct clamps and works well
your best bet is get a leather belt and cut of the buckle and fit it on your pulleys then mark were they join snuggly
take it off some good old Contact adhesive and once it is dry belt down to the Motor wreckers or a spare parts place that has a good staff as they will find the belt if they are interested Most are not
The next is a leather repair shop and get the belt glued and sown

But the Timing belt is the go if you can find the correct joing clips and the piece of brass rod to join and off you go

If you look there is Hercus No30 which has a timing belt on it but as you have the dimensions cheapest is the wreckers as my Jackaroo belt was $80.00+ to replace new you may spend half a day but it will save you money as you just go car bar car with your sample belt

Good Luck and welcome to the Forum and I will see if I can find out what No 30 Hercus belt is
all the best Derek

[allterrain50]

Hi Derek,
You had better add 2 more machines to the list. Along with my C5843(1956), you can add C1289 (flat belt model 1945) and ARM 14696(1973), both are complete (thanks in part to you) and should be operational shortly.
Talk to you latter
Mal

[phelum]

Hi Derek and Mal,

Thanks for the replies about the belt. My headstock has been removed and dismantled so if there ever was any precise adjustment for alignment then there sure isn't now. This is why I'm not worried about the effort is fitting a continuous belt.

Thanks,

[allterrain50]

Hi Steven,
I have some extra leather here if you have trouble getting some, it's 25mm * 6mm.Give me a ring if you're interested 0438466008.
Mal