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Ticky
22nd Jan 2008, 10:39 AM
Hi, I have just strted a project that I have been wanting to build for a couple of years now.

I spent about 2 weeks doing drawings, seeking prices & suppliers, placing orders etc, & I have finally made a start on the trailer chassis.

I have most of the parts now, still waiting on Axle & Springs, Brakes & coupler, LED lights, but I am expecting these this week.

I struck a blow last Friday after lunch & cut up some RHS & tacked it together. Then I spend a bit of time on Saturday & Sunday evenings.

I still have a little bit of welding on the chassis, & I also have to cut & position the Water Tank Brackets.

Pic 1 Tacking it together
Pic 2 Getting a little carried away
Pic 3 It should look something like this
Pic 4 The job has to start somewhere
Pic 5 The big box contains the tent, annex, poles etc & the pressings I had made are sitting on top.

Hope you enjoy my WIP

Steve

Yonnee
22nd Jan 2008, 01:49 PM
Looking forward to seeing the progress. I love a good trailer build thread.

If you haven't already, read through Dazzler's build (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=62544) or the start of mine (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=64389) for some tips. And if I can be of any help, let me know.

Ticky
22nd Jan 2008, 05:12 PM
Yonnee,
I have read daz's & your trailer build threads, Couple of great Trailers there as well as great threads.

I was already aware of the lateral welding on RHS, but there is still plenty I don't know, I might take you up on your offer.

This will be my 3rd trailer, but the other 2 were both very heavy duty. Trying to keep the strenght up & the weight down on this one could be the trick.

I'll post some more pics soon, I nearly have the chassis finished now, just need to find a little time.

Steve

mcchaddy
22nd Jan 2008, 10:03 PM
Gidday Ticky,

I'll be watching with great interest as I want to build one of these as well. I have been looking at doing this for quite a while now. Can you tell me what size the trailer is and what camper tent you intend using on it. Are you going to get it made or buy one alreadyt made and just bolt it on.

Would it be possible to provide dimensions for your trailer.

Cheers

Michael.

Ticky
23rd Jan 2008, 12:17 AM
Michael,

The tent assy is in the big box in Pic 5 of my first post. Everything is there ready to bolt on. I bought it on ebay new, & it fits on a 6 x 4 or a 7 x 4. Mine is a 7 x 4. There are several very similar ones to choose from & they all start to look the same after a while, but the one I went for has the annex floor attached to the annex, not just laying under it.

I have bought the springs, axles & brakes from here http://search.stores.ebay.com.au/Trailer-Parts-Spinny-Things_caravan_W0QQftsZ2QQsaselZ201080092QQsatitleZcaravanQQsofpZ0

The RHS, 2.5 for the Chassis & 3mm for the draw bar, I bought in 8m lenghts localy. The hadest part I found was finding some one to do the pressings at a good price. I had the sides & 1/2 the floor pressed as 1 piece to join on the centre of the chassis. The front is fixed & the tail gate swings.

below is the dimensions for the chassis. The sides will depend on what tent you buy & what guards you use etc.

Hope it helps.

Steve

Ticky
23rd Jan 2008, 12:37 AM
The chassis is nearly finished, just have to flip it to weld the other side in the down hand position. The top welds have been ground flat so there will be no lumps or bumps in the floor. Hopefully, the springs, Axel & Brakes will arrive in the next day or so but I still have a bit to go on with in the mean time. The draw bar should not take too long.



Gidday Ticky,

I'll be watching with great interest as I want to build one of these as well. I have been looking at doing this for quite a while now...

Cheers

Michael.

Michael, Be sure to read this thread http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=62544, inparticular, pages 3, 4 & 5 relating to where NOT to weld the drawbar.

I may be suggesting something you have already done, but if you are not sure what I am talking about, please read the thread.



I also have to put in the water tank brackets, Not sure if I will install a water tank or not, but the brackets will be in place if I decide to.

Here is a pic of the almost completed Chassis.

Steve

mcchaddy
23rd Jan 2008, 10:09 PM
Hi Steve,

Thanks for the info. Much appreciated. Steel has been orderer and I'm looking at a few differnet tents to suit the trailer. WHat size rims and tyres are you using on your trailer. What finish do you plan on using on the trailer.

I read the other threads, especially the one about not welding across the drawbar. Had a quick look at both my professionally built boat trailers and they are both welded across the drawbar.:o

Cheers

Michael.

Ticky
24th Jan 2008, 10:10 AM
Hey Mike,

I think the thing to remember when looking at proffessionaly built trailers, is that most of them are built in jigs, with a pallet load of parts all cut by machine to the same size etc. You don't need to be a 1st class welder & certainly not a boilermaker to put one together under these conditions.

If you owned a jop like this, & you employed 1 good welder to set up the machines & 3 or 4 with little or no previous welding experiance, you could turn out a dozen trailers a week without a problem.

The threads you read are giving you the correct advise. RHS should only be welded laterally, where possible. (another can of worms has just been opened) If you can get a good strong weld along both sides of the drawbaw under the front, then I would not recomend welding accross the top. The top can be & should be sealed with a paintable sealer, & the drawbar will intersect the front rail of your trailer at an angle, giving you a greater weld length than across the top anyway.

Wheels & Tyres: I bought a set of 4 Commodore Club Sport wheels & Tyres out of the paper for a pretty good price. They are 16", as I have a VY Berlina with 16" mags. My first preferance was Berlina Mags, but I could not get any at a reasonable price, so I decided to go for any 16" commodore Mag.

On the subject of wheels etc., My spare wheel will stand up infront of & across the front of the tool box. I decided to spent a couple extra dollars, about 60 I think, & buy a 10" commodore Stub Axle & Disc brake hub to mount it on. This will give me, not only a spare wheel, but a spare set of bearing already mounted in a spare hub, & all I need to change it on the side of the road is a wheel brace & a shifter. With a bit of luck, my worst case is, I wasted $60.

AS for the Finish, My brother has all the spraying equip & has sprayed a few cars. I will be finishing it with car paint to match my car, Silver. The underside will be Chassis black. I thought about dointg the tar etc, but decided on black paint. I think it should look nice with the mags etc.
The inside centre seem will also be bogged up before painting.

Steve

Yonnee
24th Jan 2008, 12:30 PM
Hi Steve,

I read the other threads, especially the one about not welding across the drawbar. Had a quick look at both my professionally built boat trailers and they are both welded across the drawbar.:o

Cheers

Michael.

Just goes to show you that even some "professionals" don't know what they're doing when it comes to building trailers. However...
Most boat trailer I know are built with the chassis and drawbar in one piece. I'd be interested to know who built it (and how), there should be a build plate / I.D. tag somewhere on the chassis with the manufacturers name.

Yonnee
24th Jan 2008, 12:53 PM
The chassis is nearly finished, just have to flip it to weld the other side in the down hand position. The top welds have been ground flat so there will be no lumps or bumps in the floor. Hopefully, the springs, Axel & Brakes will arrive in the next day or so but I still have a bit to go on with in the mean time. The draw bar should not take too long.


I also have to put in the water tank brackets, Not sure if I will install a water tank or not, but the brackets will be in place if I decide to.

Here is a pic of the almost completed Chassis.

Steve

Looking good Steve.

A tip for your drawbar...

Wait for your spring hangers and set them up first using the standard set-back rule, and then measure and cut your drawbar length to suit so that the drawbar ties into the spring hangers. This is so the longitudinal pull on the drawbar is pulling directly on the hangers/springs/axle rather than via your chassis.

Ticky
25th Jan 2008, 10:57 PM
Yonnee,

Great tip, lousy timing.

The draw bar is on, & so are the spring hangers.

While I think your tip is valid, I'm not worried about the towing stress. I believe there is more than enough strength in the chassis to cope with the stess' involved as the trailer fully loaded will be less than 1000Kg.

The drawbar is welded to the underside of the front cross member with a 6mm fillet on each side, & at the the back of the drawbar there is another crossmember with a 10mm fillet on each side. Bit of over kill I think, but an elephant is only a mouse build to my specs.

The towing stress' will be transfered to the lateral members just in front of the spring hangers. I still like your idea though.

More pics

Pic 1. Just seeing what it will look like

Pic 2. Looking forward. The 2 galv beams are not part of the trailer, just supports.

Pic 3. The spring hangers are located & welded, as are the water tank brackets & the draw bar. Not a lot to show for a full days work. :-

Pic 4. The draw bar is fairly long, extending nearly 1500mm from the front cross member. This is to allow me to put a tool box on the front as well as the Spare Wheel assy and an 8" swing up jocky wheel.

Pic 5. 50 x 50 x 3 angle water tank brackets mounted flush with the bottom of the trailer @ 630mm Centres.

Coming along. I hope to pick up a mig welder this week end. I have done about all I want to do with a stick now, & it is time to start welding some thin stuff.

I have to do a good job of this, My 18yo son laughed at me & told me that a home made trailer would look like a hillbilly trailer & I should just go & buy one. No way can I prove him right.

Steve

Ticky
28th Jan 2008, 01:54 AM
I got a bit more done this arvo, I started by painting the top with an auto primer. Then I positioned the front pannel & held in place with a clamp. On went the sides & floor & I set some stops along the outside edge of the trailer. A lille bit of clamping & dogging to line every thing up & a couple of tacks to hold it all in place.

Starting to looklike a trailer now.

Steve

Grahame Collins
28th Jan 2008, 11:06 AM
I read the other threads, especially the one about not welding across the drawbar. Had a quick look at both my professionally built boat trailers and they are both welded across the drawbar.

Hi Michael,

If I can have 20 cents worth here I would like to highlight the reason for the emphasis on not welding across the draw bar. It is possible under long term conditions to fracture to occur at this point.
Fracture mechanics is a whole subject in itself, but I will try and simplify what it is and why we are trying to avoid it.

Consider the loaded tailer as a flexible unit. As kids we may have taken a piece of tin plate a flexed it back and forth until it broke at the line of the bend.

Think of the weld across the draw bar as the failure point.

Given the wrong set of conditions trailers with such welds have flexed in a similar fashion, cracked and failed with disastrous results.

Also something I will throw in. In assembling your trailer members by welding.Tack everything, to be welded , in place first.

The assembly as a whole resists the stress distortion raised by the welding, far better than a bit by bit welded assembly technique. Try to place your tack welds in such as position for easy removal (by grinder or chisel) in the event you do make a a fubar.

Repair of any mistake, is much easier and less stressful that way.

Secondly don,t over weld as that is the next common cause of distortion. Weld beads need to be not very much wider that the wall thickness of your tube section.

cheers
Grahame

Ticky
29th Jan 2008, 01:37 AM
I welded the floor from the under side today, & now I remember what it is I don't like about welding. Any way, it's done now, so that is probably the worst part of the job.

I also worked on the rear stands, capping the tops & rounding off with the grinder, welded on a couple of 50mm sq plates for feet & rounded off the corners, & I drilled an over size hole in the bottom so the bolt will go into the tube in the UP position. Even if the bold gets a little lose, it will have to nearly unscrew all the way before the stand can drop.

I welded on a big chain link to the bolts, to make an over size butterfly screw, to avoid the use of a spanner.

Then I made 4 @ 45 x 45mm caps to weld over the ends of the front & rear cross members, sealing them up. Lotts more gringing & rounding corners & edges. It's still going to hurt if anybody walks into these things, but at least they should not need stiches.

I still have to grind the centre floor seam on top where I have stiched it, & I still need to stich the front. Then I think I should be almost ready to tackle the guards, swinging tail gate & the front tool box. The Springs & Axle are ready to bolt up, but I think I will leave that for as long as I can.

I am still not sure about the water tank. I am thinking of getting a water filter instead as we will mainly be staying in caravan parks & I can still carry 60lts in jerry cans if we go bush. Need to give this more thought.

The jocky wheel that was delivered is the wrong one. supposed to be a swing up & it is a clamp on. I will sort that out tomorrow.

So far, I am happy with the way this project is turning out. Looking forward to seeing the trailer painted & the tent fitted, the it will be back to the woodwork to fit it out .


Steve

Harry72
29th Jan 2008, 07:44 AM
Looking good Ticky!

dazzler
29th Jan 2008, 11:20 AM
:2tsup:

Ticky
2nd Feb 2008, 11:53 PM
I did a couple hours work yesterday & a few more again today.

Yesterday, I Fully welded the the rear wings to the sides & the Front to the sides. Naturally, distortion is a problem when welding material this thin, but I was able to minimise it by doing short quick Vertical downs using the back step method. Then some heavier Verical down stiches on the back, as the most of the original weld is ground away, leaving only a sealing run. Kepping the Dust & Water out is my prime concern on this trailer.

Pic 1. Using some double sided tape, I have set the tail gate 7mm away from the back, using some plywood strips. A 10mm sealing rubber will be put around the tail gate after it is painted. This should give a dust & water tight seal aroud the tailgate. I have also attached a piece of 25 x 25mm RHS across the top at the back to seal against.

Pic 2. The Tail gate is almost finished, I still need to drill the holes to mount the Anti Rattle Locks, & add a rope rail. I also need to weld a stop on the hinge side.

Pic 3. The front is fully welded on the inside. Still need to make the tool box, & this will be welded to the front.

Pic 4. These seams are fully welded on top & under, then the top has been ground & blended to give a smooth & rounded finish.

I am happy with the progress so far, but I am over welding again & looking forward to getting into the wood work stage to fit it out. I can't wait to see it finished.

Steve

Ticky
5th Feb 2008, 10:01 PM
I put the tool box together last night & I welded it on tonight. I have also welded the seams on the lid corners & rounded them off. I have the catches, lockable, but I still need to get a couple of hinges.

I have given a lot of thought to putting in a water tank or a water filter. I have decided to go with the filter, but I still have to look into these. I have heard there is a inline filter available, but I don't know how good it is. a bit of research required.

I have also decided to fit some brackets the same as the rear leg brackets, to the out side of all 4 wings. These will serve as boat rack brackets. Ok, so I don't have a boat, but you never know, I might get one one day. Besides, this will enable me to pickup lenghts of timber etc without removing the tent. This is not something I want to do. once it is on, I plan to leave it on.

The boat rack can be made at a later date, but I want the brackets on for painting. I plan on painting it in just over a weeks time, & as Friday is the only day that I can spend all day on it, I need to do a little when I can.

I still need to tack on a couple of tubes for the wires to run through, & maybe a bit of RHS on the back to fit a bike rack. Then it will be the axle, springs & brakes on Friday. Then the guards, steps, jerry can holders & gas bottle holder.

A good run on Friday should just about do it.

Steve

Yonnee
5th Feb 2008, 10:37 PM
I was going to say don't weld the tool box on, it's better if you make it separate and bolt it on, allowing you to remove it for whatever reason, including repairing it should it ever get damaged...

...But I won't now.


Looking good now, :2tsup: you're flying through it. I just wish I could spare more time to work on mine.

You going to put jerry can holders, or LPG bottle rings?

Ticky
6th Feb 2008, 09:27 AM
Hi Yonnee,

I will have 3 jerry can holders & 1 gas bottle holder. The gas bottle holder can take either a 4.5 or 9kg bottle.

This means I can carry 60lts of water without a tank, so we can still go bush if we choose, & with the purifier, I can refill from any tap. I also have 2 x 20lt square containers I could use if I needed them, but I can't see that happening.

Steve

Ticky
11th Feb 2008, 02:51 PM
Nearly finished now, I will be getting it inspected & registered later this week & off to get it painted on the weekend.

Still have to put on lights & safety chains, spare wheel carrier, Jocky wheel, hinges & locks on the tool box, rear left hand step & left hand side boat rack brackets & jerry can holder & gas bottle holder.

Also have to do something about a water filter this week & make a bracket for that.

Steve

hux
12th Feb 2008, 07:00 PM
You've done a great job and quick as well. Don't forget to show us the painted up pics in due course.

neksmerj
12th Feb 2008, 07:52 PM
Tricky,

Great work on the camper trailer, well done.

A company I contract to makes dual filter water purifiers with internal silver colloids to destroy bacteria. They are battery powered with electronics to let you know the state of affairs.:2tsup:

Have a look at pbswater.com.au

They are located in Campbellfield, Melbourne.

Contact Bruce Sansome on (03) 9308 0988

Ken

Ticky
13th Feb 2008, 10:36 PM
Looking good Ticky!

Thanks Harry, I'll be up your way on the weekend. My brother lives at Mundoora & he is painting it for me.



Don't forget to show us the painted up pics in due course.


Thanks Hux, I must admit, I am looking forward to seeing the painted job myself. I'll post a couple of pics next week.


Tricky,

A company I contract to makes dual filter water purifiers with internal silver colloids to destroy bacteria. They are battery powered with electronics to let you know the state of affairs.:2tsup:

Ken

Thanks Ken & thanks for the info. I had a look at the site, But I think I have found a local place that does inline (lay down) filters that take a standard 10" cartridge. I think this will fit in with what I have planned for the kitchen, not that the kitchen plan is all laid out at this stage.


I fitted the last jerry can holder, gas bottle holder, rear step & Left had side boat brackets this morning, then I wired up the lights & plug & went & had it inspected & got my VIN plate. I went outside for about 1/2 an hour tonight & cut & fitted the LHS Rope Rail.

I don't know If I need rope rails as the tent cover is zipped on & I don't plan on using the trailer for anything else, but it just doesn't feel right to build a trailer & not put on some rope rails. Anyway, I need to have all the welding finish by tomorrow night as I am leavinfto get it painted first thing Friday Morn.

Steve

Yonnee
14th Feb 2008, 01:42 PM
A quick suggestion for your tie-down rails and your guards.

The bottom corners have always bugged me from day one on your guards. No offence, each to their own if you like them, but 10 mins with the grinder before painting...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/TICKY001.jpg

Yonnee.

Ticky
15th Feb 2008, 12:10 AM
Hi Yonnee,
I know what you mean about the corners, I have been looking at them all week & scratching my head. Funny thing is, they have kinda grown on me.

Your idea is a little too radical for me, but I am thinking about a 20 - 25 x 45 degree snip, even if only to prevent ripping open the jeans or the leg as we walk past it.

I am heading off for the 2 hour trip to my brothers place at 8:15am tomorrow, but I have packed the 4" with the cutter & 9" with a flap disc, and of course, a cartoon of burbs. Ill worry out clothes & less important stuff in the morning.

I have mounted the rope rails high. I like full length rails above the guards, especialy on tandums, but even on single axle trailers. The front of this one presents a little problem, but I am working on a solution. I bought 3 stainless U Bolts with SS Plates front & back to spread the load. At $25 each, its a quick way to rip up the best part of 100 bucks, but they are very strong even on very thin material. I have a problem in the centre, but I think I can overcome this with a bit of SS angle & a couple more SS bolts.

I had a tarp made for my last trailer, a 6 x 4. The tarp is 10 x 8' with tabs at 6 x 4' & a 2' drop all round. It looks ok, but I may get it altered at some stage if I find I need to.

Any way, last pics before paint.

Steve

Yonnee
26th Feb 2008, 05:06 PM
Painted yet!!???

dazzler
26th Feb 2008, 07:31 PM
Good taste in wheels too :)

Ticky
5th Mar 2008, 10:31 PM
My trailer is painted & I have fitted the tent. I lent my camera to my son & could not get any pics of the painted trailer before the tent went on.

Ticky
5th Mar 2008, 11:22 PM
My trailer is painted & I have fitted the tent. I lent my camera to my son & could not get any pics of the painted trailer before the tent went on.

Pic 1. The tent with the annex fitted.
pic 2. Annex removed & Annex Roof folded back over tent
pic 3. veiw accross the front
pic 4. looking toward the back.

I still have a bit to do, the wiring is only twitched together & that need to be soldered & I have some heat shring to go over each wire & then the loom.

I also have to fit the number plate light. I have spent a bit of time searching through a chandlery catalogue for Stainless fittings, & I stumbled across a marine flush mount 12v power outlet (Cig lighter socket) I think I will mount this on the rear Right hand step. this will be a handy socket to plug in a 12v compressor to pump up air beds etc.

Steve

Yonnee
6th Mar 2008, 01:47 PM
Top stuff Ticky!!:2tsup:

Are you going to be running a battery in the trailer or a feed wire from the tow vehicle?

If you don't mind me asking, what did the top set you back? (P.M. if you want)

If been looking at some of these camper tops on eBay, but would be wary of quality. But even going to a manufacturer doesn't guarentee that something won't go wrong.

hux
6th Mar 2008, 06:28 PM
Well done Ticky. You should give yourself a pat on the back and a carton of your favourite premium beers to boot.

Nothing home built about your rig - looks extremely well done.

Ticky
7th Mar 2008, 11:16 AM
Thanks Yonnee,

There are several of these tents on ebay & at a glance, they all look the same, but there are a few differences.

The one we got has pockets sewn in for things like your wallet & keys. Not needed, but handy. It also has the annex floor velcroed to the front of the tent & annex walls.

Is it perfect?... no. But at less than 1/2 the price of a localy made tent, & quite a bit bigger, I will fang with it untill I get it how I want it.

The canvas is 13oz, not 15oz like most of the local ones, but IMO, 13oz is better. it is a lot easier to fold & still does the same job. One of the better known camper trailer places in Adelaide uses 15oz on there top of the line models & 11oz on the budget models. there budget models come in at nearly double what I paid, & they do not include the toolbox, jerry can holders or gas bottle holder. These are all extra.

one problem I had was the steel on the bed base was not at 4' wide. This ment I had a 20mm gap around the top of the trailer. I fixed this by buying some 25mm square rubber & gluing it to the bed base. I also used 12mm stick on rubber on the top of the trailer & I have a very good seal now.

I might run a battery system at some stage in the future, but for now, I will be wiring the power socket into the trailer wireing loom. I wired the trailer with 7 core wire, leaving me 2 spare wires to play with. We plan to mainly stay in caravan parks, so we will use 240 for most things, but who knows what the future holds...

Thanks Hux for your kind words. I'm not really a beer drinker mate, but I have had a few (burbs) burbouns to celerbrate every stage of this project. I just have to figure out how to make tiding up the wiring & putting on the rego sticker into about another 8 stages. I better go buy another cartoon & have a drink while I think about it.

Steve

Yonnee
8th Mar 2008, 08:47 AM
Thanks for the PM fella. Much appreciated. I've been looking at one on eBay that has the brilliant idea of have the annexe either as a roof only, or attaching any one of three walls separately or all at once to make an enclosed room doubling the size of the tent. But the best part is the front wall can be interchanged with either full mesh walls to make a sunroom, or full canvas walls with windows. And the two side windows are designed to either roll up like normal windows, or be stretched out as an awning/annexe by adding two poles and guy ropes. Additionally you can add diagonal side wings to these outstretched awnings to provide some protection from wind and rain while it's open.

We're not in a position to buy just yet, but I'll spend the time trying to do heaps of research before outlaying nearly two grand of my 'hard-earned'.

Once again, congratulations Steve on a top effort, and if we ever catch up, a couple of 'Burbs' will have to be shared!:2tsup:

Yonnee.

Ticky
11th Apr 2008, 12:07 AM
We are going to Kangaroo Island next week to try out our new camper. Looking forward to it.

Buzza
11th Apr 2008, 11:00 PM
Now I am a Hill-Billy, and that finished job doesn't look a bit Hill-Billy to me, it looks like a professional job. Full marks. :)

(What's wrong with looking like a Hill-Billy Boy)? :(( :D

Harry72
12th Apr 2008, 09:19 PM
Yep top notch lookin camper Ticky, well done mate:2tsup: