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View Full Version : Trailer build II... the long haul.



Yonnee
9th Jan 2008, 11:09 PM
After following Daz's thread http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=62544 with his plant trailer build as well as helping out with some tips and advice, I though I'd better get around to start building my own trailers. I have the need for two trailers, one a standard box trailer (all-be-it far from standard), and a car carrier to be able to transport my project car around should it need to be moved.

After my Mechanic apprenticeship, my background is in the Trailer and Caravan industry, having worked for the two biggest suppliers of Trailer axles in the country. I've worked in both Sales and the Service/Repair side of the industry, so I can safely say I've seen the good, the bad, and the very ugly when it comes to quality of workmanship in some of the trailers being built.

First up will be the box trailer.
Not quite sure of exactly what size yet, although it will be 7' x 4'something", it'll depend on what length axle I can pickup.

Tip: A cheaper way of getting an axle is to use ones that have been made incorrectly to the wrong length or the wrong brakes or the wrong bearing pattern. Then you can make your trailer width to suit these axles. However, if you have a particular size and/or weight you require, then you're better off ordering an axle to be built.

Knowing that I will load the trailer up, and that as soon as you have a good trailer, people will borrow it (and load it up), this one will be built a little more robust than your average 7'x4'. The standard 39mm round axle with Holden bearings on your average 6X4 is rated to 750kg, this one will be 45mm square material with Ford bearings rated to 1450kg.
The chassis will be made from 40mm x 40mm RHS with 2.0mm wall (over the usual 1.6mm) but will have the centre and rear cross rails done in 75mm x 50mm. The drawbar will also be 75 x 50 and be closer to 5' in length rather than the usual 4'.

Tip: The longer the point between the centre of your coupling and the centre of your axles, the easier your trailer will be to reverse. But too long and the drawbar triangle becomes too narrow and can allow the trailer to flex too much, making it unstable. Or you can bow or bend your drawbar making it an accident looking for a place to happen.

To be able to register the trailer over 750kg, I will be fitting Electric brakes. I have test towed hundreds of trailers with various forms of brakes and will never have over-ride brakes on any trailer I own. Yes, they have their place, and sometimes they're the only option for certain applications such as hire trailers, but for my own safety and peace of mind... Electric is my only choice.

This trailer is also going to be a multi-function trailer. Incorporated into the design will be provision for adding various accessories such as ladder racks, cage sides, etc., so the trailer will adapt to what ever I need to use it for. Also in the design stage is a heavy duty tailgate that will double as a ramp for loading stuff by barrow. The creativity in the design will hopefully not only make it removeable, but allow it to either drop down as a normal gate does or swing out to the side if need be.

So, hopefully I can make a start shortly and I'll be taking heaps of photos... so stay tuned.

Yonnee.

montiee
10th Jan 2008, 02:23 PM
Sounds interesting. Look forward to it.

Grahame Collins
11th Jan 2008, 08:39 AM
Yonee,
Both you and Dazzler have provided the inspiration for what I am sure will be many trailers to be built by forum contributers. I have built a couple in the past ,but they have always been copied from some one else.

In these current threads I have seen more first class trailer design and innovation presented in one offering than I have have seen at any other time.

Both of you have inspired a lot of us to tackle a construction, now armed with more than just more than the will to build a trailer.

Thanks to you fellas we can now undertake a trailer construction understanding the basic safety requirements ,engineering and regulations.
You have done a big service to us all.Thanks to you both.

You can bet all this info is being saved into into my trailer folder.I will follow further posts with much interest.

regards
Grahame

Thank you both very much

dazzler
11th Jan 2008, 09:57 AM
Thanks for your comments Grahame, very much appreciated.

When I was an apprentice mechanic my favourite job was building up bushfire trucks for the NSW Bushfire Service. Just like a big mechano set :2tsup:.

Some support for those who have little or no welding experience I would say get a mig and "tack" weld the important bits (chassis/drawbar etc) and get a good welder to complete the welding on those bits and do the rest yourself.

Have fun now!

Yonnee
11th Jan 2008, 01:33 PM
:BThanks Gra...

I hate seeing people making silly mistakes, and believe me, I've seen even so-called "professional" trailer manufacturers build some complete rubbish.

It gives me pleasure to be able to give someone some advice that makes their trailer project easier and more user friendly.

Penpal
12th Jan 2008, 10:52 AM
I have only had two trailers,one I cut,folded from gal sheeting with a welded frame that was just under the legal limit for a 6X4 box trailer.Then twenty years later an all aluminium Kit Trailer made by Alcan that was sold through the NRMA here in NSW and the ACT,it came in kit form fully drilled complete with bolts floor and wheels,all up weight was 115 kilos registered.I remember it took me two days to assemble it,the sections were such a firm fit in fact outstanding.The flooring interlocked as on the Holden Utes at that time lip one in and bolt behind it.

As an extra I bought the aluminium frame and zip on heavy duty cover but it proved to act like a sail in reverse.

I have forgotten the cost now since this was in the 70,s but it was around one hundred dollars more than a normal box trailer. Well I still have it it for me an old fella is light to move and use will carry a ton of gravel.One time I bought a few hundred pavers,bringing home a level trailer at a time,on one return journey as I drove along a side road above a major road one wheel came off the trailer all the studs had sheared off.It went straight ahead then veered off down a real steep,high embankment narrowly missed a full line of traffic on the one way road left then crossed a divide then into a full lane of traffic going the other way,hit the embankment on the other side went up in the air about twenty feet straight up,down on the flat and stayed there,no car touched.Almost miraculous,I was imagining how I would ever pay reparations for damages.

However the purpose of the entry to the forum was to say there is a strong case for an aluminium trailer for all household and general use,the tray does not rust etc. I travelled 30 kms to my home with three sheets of 30mm laminated top sheets at one time 12 feet by 6 feet.It has been incredible for me,with a good length draw bar,backs really well,when empty in a crucially tight area I can slide it by hand.

Alcan discontinued manufacture but I have often felt they may still produce the panel sections etc.Just a thought. Peter:2tsup:

Yonnee
13th Jan 2008, 11:35 AM
I hear what you're saying Peter, and it sounds like a fantastic trailer for the weight saving alone. However, I feel that it would be fairly cost prohibitive these days due to the price of aluminium. The other consideration is any future repairs/modification that might be required are alot easier with steel as most home welders will do the job, whereas welding aluminium requires much more specialised equipment.

For me, having a mate in the steel industry, an account at Melbourne Trailer & Caravan Supplies, a MIG welder, a heap of RHS and chequer plate I've collected over the years, and a work contact who will sandblast, prime & paint at cost, my own trailers will be built from steel.

Yonnee
5th Feb 2008, 02:20 PM
I've been waiting for a free Saturday morning to go to Melbourne Trailer & Caravan Supplies. Occasionally there's an error where an axle is made to the wrong length, the wrong bearing pattern, or the wrong brake flanges welded to it. Rather than try and fix them, they're put aside and a new one is made. If they're a common size, it'll be held until an order comes through for that sized axle. If not, then they can be sold through the shop a fair bit cheaper than usual, or they end up getting cut down for stub axles. I've been waiting to get one of these axles which would determine the overall width of the trailer, but I've decided to take some of my own advice and make the trailer to a standard width, which will make it easier to replace the axle should anything ever go wrong... That and the fact that the floor sheets I have are 4' wide and I don't want to weld a join down the entire length of the trailer.

So... now that I have decided on the dimensions of the trailer, I can now finalize the cutting list for the frame.

(Pic's coming... uploading was taking forever)

Yonnee
5th Feb 2008, 11:14 PM
I know, I know...
:worthless:


So here goes...

After working out the cutting list and deciding on what size material to use, it was time to get cutting.

145551


Once the main frame pieces were cut, all sharp edges were cleaned up, and the rails that are to be butt welded to other rails were also chamfered for better weld penetration.

145550

Next was to lay the main perimeter of the chassis on the floor, measure, adjust, measure, check again, tack weld, measure, check again, tack again to hold square, measure again, re-check...
...I think you get the idea.

145552

This is one of the most critical stages of the build. Some will say "just slap it together, near enough is good enough, no-one will know!" But I'll know!! If I build you a trailer, I'll take the same care and thought as I do for my own.



Once the frame is square and tacked together, next is to mark the positions of the centre cross rails.

145547
145548

And that's where I finished Monday night.


I have been playing around with a few ideas on where and how the number plate will mount, and also a reverse light.

Firstly with the reverse light centered and the plate offset...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/7x4%20Trailer/7x4build003.jpg

Next with the plate centered and a bit lower...

145549

All the lights on this trailer will be recessed as well as the number plate, nothing will stick out past the back of the chassis rail to get damaged. I think I've decided on how the plate will go, and it's different from these two pictures.

You'll have to wait and see.

Also, I've decided to keep the LED reverse light for the car trailer (next on the projects list), I might look at another lamp I have in the shed for this one.

Thanks for looking.

Ticky
7th Feb 2008, 12:09 AM
Looking good Yonnee, I like the ideas you are going to incoporate, it will be interesting to watch it progress.

Steve

Yonnee
20th Feb 2008, 10:28 PM
Well...

Haven't had a chance to do alot on my own trailer lately. Been tied up modifying a mates camper trailer. He was concerned about the strength of his drawbar now that it's been converted from garden rubbish duties to Off-road camping duties. He bought the camper top really cheap on ebay, drove interstate to pick it up, and then set about making an extension to sit the camper top on. He'd also swapped the car wheels for some "off-road" wheels and tyres, moving the axle under the springs to accomodate the new 'boots'. However, the axle saddles are welded to the axle beam, and the axle is a 2-1/2" drop axle, so rather than remove the saddles, he turned the axle over when placing it under the springs. This gave him an all-up ride height increase of around 12".

This is how it came to me...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/BA%20Camper/trailer003.jpg


With a very short drawbar...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/BA%20Camper/trailer004.jpg


And some rust...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/BA%20Camper/trailer005.jpg


This is the way the axle was...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/BA%20Camper/trailer006.jpg


After a short while, some sparks and some noise, I had made short work of the old drawbar...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/BA%20Camper/trailer008.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/BA%20Camper/trailer009.jpg


I had another axle that was exactly the right length and worked out to be perfect with the ride height he wanted. And while setting up the axle and new drawbar measurements, I found the spring hanger on one side 40mm further back than the other. So I moved this as well...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/BA%20Camper/trailer011.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/BA%20Camper/trailer012.jpg


As much as I harp about not welding accross the drawbar on any trailer, I do follow my own advice. Although this is probably an overkill for a trailer this size, this is how I strengthen this point...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/BA%20Camper/trailer013.jpg


I needed to lower the coupling to sit the trailer level when hooked to the tow vehicle.
Also, I can be a little fussy sometime with how I finish things off, but it's the little things that make a difference...
-Capping the ends of the drawbar.
-1/2 chain links for the safety chain when not in use.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/BA%20Camper/trailer014.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/BA%20Camper/trailer015.jpg

Yonnee
20th Feb 2008, 10:41 PM
Now, with the change of ride height, the rear steadies were now too short. So they were modified...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/BA%20Camper/trailer018.jpg

...and reattached...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/BA%20Camper/trailer019.jpg

The wiring will be re-done by the owner when he gets it home, as it was something he felt he could do.

Now my mate is one Happy Camper!!:2tsup:

And I can get back to my own trailer... until the next customer.

Yonnee.

DJ’s Timber
20th Feb 2008, 11:09 PM
Some nice work there Yonnee :2tsup:, don't think I would have wanted to travel to far with the drop axle up the other way :o

Yonnee
20th Feb 2008, 11:18 PM
Thanks DJ.

It would have been safe enough. Other than weight, there's not alot of stress on an axle when there's no brakes.

But it didn't look right did it???

scooter
21st Feb 2008, 12:01 AM
Thanks, Yonnee, enjoying the read & the pics. :)

Yonnee
4th Mar 2008, 05:02 PM
I've had a chance to do a little more on the trailer, some of it, the fiddly bits.

The last of the cross rails added...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/7x4%20Trailer/trailer001.jpg

I love my MIG...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/7x4%20Trailer/trailer002.jpg


Now, the idea that I had for the number plate and light is to have the plate recessed and the light hidden, as well as a neat place for the wiring to run.
First was to strengthen the rear rail in preparation for cutting half of it out. It might only look like a small section of 40mm RHS, but it's 4mm wall thickness.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/7x4%20Trailer/7x4build008.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/7x4%20Trailer/7x4build009.jpg


Welded in and the hole drilled for the wiring.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/7x4%20Trailer/7x4build010.jpg


Next, the rear rail was measured and marked for the plate recess and I started by using the holesaw in the corners for a neater finish. And without a plasma cutter, I'm very slow and steady with a grinder and cutting wheel...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/7x4%20Trailer/7x4build011.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/7x4%20Trailer/7x4build012.jpg


Clean up the edges with a flap disc and file...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/7x4%20Trailer/7x4build013.jpg


At this stage I turn the welder down and filled the gap between the two pieces before grinding and filing smooth. The holes were also drilled for the light and wiring.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/7x4%20Trailer/7x4build014.jpg

Yonnee
4th Mar 2008, 05:30 PM
This is how the plate will look...
...obviously, hopefully not upside-down.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/7x4%20Trailer/7x4build015.jpg

And from behind, the lamp shouldn't be visible.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/7x4%20Trailer/7x4build017.jpg

dazzler
4th Mar 2008, 08:02 PM
Nice welds....you got gas :D

Yonnee
5th Mar 2008, 01:02 PM
Thanks Daz.

Ticky
7th Mar 2008, 11:35 AM
Very nice work Yonnee & I lke the idea, but is this going to trap water & cause problems? Have you considered blanking off the cutout & creating a pocket for the NP light. Just a thought.

Steve

DJ’s Timber
7th Mar 2008, 04:57 PM
Very nice work Yonnee & I lke the idea, but is this going to trap water & cause problems? Have you considered blanking off the cutout & creating a pocket for the NP light. Just a thought.

Steve

Yonnee can correct me here if I'm wrong, but I think that the frame is currently upside down, so when its that right way up it won't be a trap for water.

dazzler
7th Mar 2008, 06:47 PM
Yonnee can correct me here if I'm wrong, but I think that the frame is currently upside down, so when its that right way up it won't be a trap for water.


yep, like this;


68764


or going hard around a corner like this;

68765


:p

Ticky
8th Mar 2008, 12:12 AM
OK, My Bad.

Should have seen that.

ticky

Yonnee
8th Mar 2008, 09:30 AM
Should have seen that.

ticky

Particularly as above the pic with the old plate and NP light says, "This is how the plate will look...
...obviously, hopefully not upside-down." :doh:

It's OK Tick...:;

Yep, it's upsidedown. I find this the easiest way to assemble a chassis and attach the drawbar and spring hangers before turning it over and starting the top. Small trailers aren't so bad, but when I do the car trailer, the less I have to lift it and turn it over, the better for my back.

Yonnee
8th Mar 2008, 10:09 AM
Now that the main frame is assembled and the plate modifications are done, it time for the drawbar. I like having a longer drawbar than normal as it makes for easier reversing. Alot of people don't realise that most 6x4's are made with a drawbar shorter than 4' for a reason. And that being that you don't have to register a trailer that's; privately used, weighs less than 200kg empty, is narrower than the tow vehicle, and is less than 10' long. So, if you're going to register your home-made trailer, there's no reason to have your drawbar too short. I'm making mine 5' from the front of the cross bar.

Firstly, I made careful measurements for the axle placement and this determined where the front spring hangers were to go. These were then tacked in place. Next, a centreline was marked on the front & rear cross rails and a jack stand placed 5' out front in line with these marks. A measurement was then taken from the spring hangers to this jack stand giving me my drawbar cutting length. Once cut, they were placed together in the 'V' and the front tacked together. Alot of trailer places have jigs for setting all of this up, but I have my ways of doing this and constant measuring ensures that everything is all square.

This is not a mistake, or overkill, because the front cross rail is 50mm and the rest of the chassis is 40mm, there is a 10mm gap between the side rails and the drawbar. I could have just welded it flush and the drawbar would have have sat on a slight downward angle from back to front, but I like making work for myself.:roll:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/7x4%20Trailer/7x4build023.jpg
Besides, it gives a gap that can be painted to prevent rust between the drawbar and chassis... at least that's what I'm telling myself.:D

The coupling plate is also welded on at this point, another thing that's easier to weld while the trailer is upsidedown. (Depends on the overhang of the plate to the drawbar. This one is the 4 hole plate for the Electric/Over-ride coupling.)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/7x4%20Trailer/7x4build024.jpg

Where I can (and where practical), I like to tie my drawbars into the spring hangers, particularly on larger trailers as it puts less stress on the chassis.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/7x4%20Trailer/7x4build025.jpg


*** My gas bottle has been fairly low of late, so I've been expecting to have to swap it some time very soon, but I didn't expect to run out of wire halfway through a run!!!:~:(( ***

So this is where it finished for the night.

DJ’s Timber
8th Mar 2008, 10:21 AM
Coming along nicely Yonnee :2tsup:, its a bugger when you run out of gas isn't it :~ :doh:

Yonnee
8th Mar 2008, 10:24 AM
Still got gas... it ran out of wire!!

DJ’s Timber
8th Mar 2008, 10:25 AM
Whoops misread it :doh:

Yonnee
10th Mar 2008, 09:26 PM
So much for a long weekend... Cricket semi-final on Sat & Sun and a BIL wanting work done on his car didn't leave me much time to myself.

But I did mange to finish the last of the welds underneath to allow me to turn the chassis over... (please excuse the mess)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/7x4%20Trailer/7x4build026.jpg

Up...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/7x4%20Trailer/7x4build027.jpg

..and over...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/7x4%20Trailer/7x4build028.jpg

cromagnon
10th Mar 2008, 10:04 PM
Really nice stuff, I love hands on projects like this. I wish I could weld....:(

Yonnee
10th Mar 2008, 10:16 PM
Thanks Cromagnon.

If you need anything done, just hollar.

Welding's not too hard, just expensive to set up.

scooter
10th Mar 2008, 10:26 PM
Just noticed you're in Tooradin, Yonnee, just down the road from here, & Robbo country.

Have to come along to the next BBQ out this way.


Cheers.................Sean

Yonnee
11th Mar 2008, 06:00 PM
Just noticed you're in Tooradin, Yonnee, just down the road from here, & Robbo country.

Have to come along to the next BBQ out this way.


Cheers.................Sean

If I'm free, with bells on!!:2tsup:

And I think I know Robbo's place, even though we've not met yet, If it's the place I think it is, I could nearly rock his roof from my place:o:;

Yonnee
11th Mar 2008, 11:15 PM
OK. Now she's the right way round, there's a few more welds to finish off...

... the front spring hangers are done.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/7x4%20Trailer/7x4build029.jpg

And again, I practice what I preach... ...no welds across the drawbar!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/7x4%20Trailer/7x4build030.jpg

Close up... ...the extra support brace.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/7x4%20Trailer/7x4build031.jpg

For a trailer this size, some might think that this is overkill, and it probably is, but it will be registered to an ATM of 1450kg so will be able to carry a fair load. So I do this to most of the trailers I build or modify for my own peace of mind.

dazzler
8th Apr 2008, 08:45 PM
Great work Yonnee....:2tsup:

Yonnee
9th Apr 2008, 05:34 PM
Thanks Daz.

I've been a little slack in the trailer dept. over the last couple of weeks, but I have been busy...
A birthday, Easter, my son's birthday, poured a slab for 3 water tanks and built a steel rack to get all my RHS off the floor...

This is the new rack...
...all that steel was taking up 1/4 of the shed floor. Now I have a fabrication area for trailers, etc. (You can just see the trailer in its new spot)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/Shed%20build/SteelRack001.jpg

pedro the swift
10th Apr 2008, 02:18 PM
Hi Yonnee
I'm impressed with your trailer construction. Just some questions from one who doesn't know.
Why aren't the draw bars bent directly from the side rails but are welded onto the square frame. I would have expected full length draw bars to be stronger than relying on welded on bits. Are the welds and plates on the drawbar adequate for this application or do you make more welds to the frame.?
Also why can't one weld across the draw bars. Is it because it would weaken the steel?.
I notice the towball plate seems to be only "tacked" on. Do you do full welds on all these places later.
I have bought a homemade large (7X4) offroad trailer without brakes and I was toying with putting brakes on it. I note that you don't like override brakes but prefer electric. Is there any reason for this preference?

Thanks much for the detailed pics of the construction. Looking forward to more.

dazzler
10th Apr 2008, 03:48 PM
Hi Pedro

From memory a half inch of weld done correctly will hold a tonne (Im sure someone knows the full amount) whereas the bend in the side rail would become a fatigue point and IMO less strong.

I could be wrong :- though

Yonnee
10th Apr 2008, 04:50 PM
Hi Yonnee
I'm impressed with your trailer construction. Just some questions from one who doesn't know.

Hey Pedro.
Welcome to my little trailer bit and thanks for your comments.:2tsup:
I'll try to answer your questions to your satisfaction.


Why aren't the draw bars bent directly from the side rails but are welded onto the square frame. I would have expected full length draw bars to be stronger than relying on welded on bits.
You are correct that a full length, one piece drawbar would be a bit stronger, and this is the way that most boat trailers are now made, but with all trailers that have sides, the strength is in these sides and therefore the added extra weight and expense of using the heavier material right to the back is overkill, even by my standards.
Plus I have no way of bending that size material effectively!
And if the drawbar ever needed to be replaced, it wouldn't be cost effective to do so.


Are the welds and plates on the drawbar adequate for this application or do you make more welds to the frame.?

Definately. There are two welds underneath the front cross rail along the drawbar that I don't have a close-up of. These are in addition to the gussets you can see on the side of the drawbar. And the end of the drawbar is tied to the spring hanger as well.


Also why can't one weld across the draw bars. Is it because it would weaken the steel?.
Not that it 'weakens' the steel, but welding "across the grain" of the drawbar at this point doesn't allow it to flex when there are heavy loads in the trailer. Long term you'd eventually see cracking of the steel around this point.
(Note: a good weld is stronger than the steel around it)


I notice the towball plate seems to be only "tacked" on. Do you do full welds on all these places later.
They're more than just tacked. Those are stitch welds approximately 2in long. Welding the entire length of the plate is unnessesary. There is another stitch weld on the inside at the rear of that plate.

The other reason for not filling every join full of weld is the time involved in replacing / repairing the trailer should it ever be involved in an accident. If you've ever had to removed an item that's been welded in every nook and cranny, you'd know what I mean.


I have bought a homemade large (7X4) offroad trailer without brakes and I was toying with putting brakes on it. I note that you don't like override brakes but prefer electric. Is there any reason for this preference?

As I've said before, override brakes have their place, and while they are perfectly legal on trailers up to 2000kg, I would not have them on a trailer I own. I have been in a situation where a 2000kg hire trailer was pushing me down a hill and through a red light intersection, using me to apply its own ineffective brakes. Maybe the brakes weren't adjusted properly, but most of the time they are only fitted to one axle and are good for only 1300kg. (Electric starts at 1600kg per axle of brake capacity.)
Four other reasons for electric over over-ride...
- Not having to get out of the car to flip the latch to reverse the trailer.
- Dont start me on the "CLUNK" when you come to a complete stop...
- Over-ride can't work going backwards.
- You can apply trailer brakes independently of your tow vehicles brakes.
(I'll add more as I think of them)


Thanks much for the detailed pics of the construction. Looking forward to more.
Thank you for looking and your kind comments and I hope I've answered your questions to your satisfaction. If you have any more, please do not hesitate to ask.

Cheers,

Yonnee.

WazOz
12th Apr 2008, 09:18 PM
Hi Yonee, just finished going over your build, and like it very much, a shame that some pro trailer builders in the West don't take pride in their work like you do, I know it's a competitive market, but safety adn quality first. There are some great builders here, but couldn't afford them, my future build will be for a Hilux tray 7' x 5'6 near new condition, would you recommend brakes? and if so how hard is it to affix them, single axle solid square with 6 stud hub, never built a trailer, wanted to and a friend gave me the Toyota hilux tray and his brother gave me the axle, also said rims and tyres will be coming, very generous of them, have a friend in church that is a really good welder (MIG) I am ok with a welder, done courses and a few small jobs on constructing cages for butchers shop, under supervision from a qualified fitter and welder. Nothing has broken yet, would like to do this on my own, sense of achievement kinda thing, if you understand. What springs would you recommend? trailer slips? or hilux leaf springs with front and rear hangers?. Won't bombard you anymore, think thats enough as it is your thread. Cheers Waz from Mandurah West Oz

durwood
12th Apr 2008, 11:59 PM
I've got electric brakes on my car trailer wouldn't have anything else.

2 points slightly different from Yonnee's

you can adjust the pressure on the brakes so if its empty you can ease them off and if you have a heavy load you can increase the effect of the trailer brakes.

If you are stopped facing uphill the brakes work ( same as reversing )

When I made my trailer I made the draw bar removeable. You have no idea how handy that is.

I can leave the trailer anywhere and with it removed you can't tow it away.

You can store the trailer in a much smaller space.

It also lets me tilt the trailer as its bolted at the back of the draw bar by 2 bolts as well as at the front of the trailer box. Take out the front 2 bolts and it can be tipped.

DJ’s Timber
13th Apr 2008, 12:10 AM
You got some pics of your trailer durwood, particularly the draw bar, it sounds like a good set up.

Yonnee
13th Apr 2008, 12:54 AM
Hi Yonee, just finished going over your build, and like it very much, a shame that some pro trailer builders in the West don't take pride in their work like you do, I know it's a competitive market, but safety adn quality first.
Thanks.


There are some great builders here, but couldn't afford them, my future build will be for a Hilux tray 7' x 5'6 near new condition, would you recommend brakes?
Yes!
In a tray that size you can put a fair load and legally you're only allowed up to 750kg, including the weight of the trailer, without brakes.

...and if so how hard is it to affix them, single axle solid square with 6 stud hub,...
If the axle is a trailer axle with a standard bearing configuration, then all that's required is to jig up and weld a mounting flange on each side for the brake backing plates, bolting up the brake assemblies, fitting new drums and bearings, and wire or plumb up the brakes.


never built a trailer, wanted to...
...would like to do this on my own, sense of achievement kinda thing, if you understand. Perfectly!
Get as much advice as you think you need, the rest is a confidence thing. If you're confident in your ability to do a good job, then hop to it. If not, then either learn, and gain the confidence to do the job properly, or don't do it at all.


What springs would you recommend? trailer slips? or hilux leaf springs with front and rear hangers?.
Trailer springs are short, therefore inherently harsh, but are cheap and will do the job fine. Either 'slipper' or 'eye and eye' are fine, 'eye to eye' being a little dearer, but a little quieter, but have more moving parts to maintain.
If you go the way of car/4WD springs, you'll have a great ride quality, require more room for fitment as they're longer than trailer springs, and also require shock absorbers to be set up to stop the trailer 'wallowing' all over the place. Everyone has an opinion on what's best and why their opinion is better, so I'll just give you this scenario...
'You go bush with your trailer and break a standard spring. You limp to the nearest roadhouse/workshop. They carry a small range of stuff, fan belts, universal fit radiator hoses, etc. and some trailer bearings. You might get lucky and they carry a couple of slipper springs just for this sort of thing. Or someone knows someone just down the road with an old 6x4 you can pinch a spring from. You get home, allbeit a little lighter in the pocket.

What's that?? You've got springs from the rear of a 1986 Hilux...
The nearest Toyota dealer is 1200 kms away, who has to order it in...
The nearest wreckers is alomst as far, And the nearest springworks isn't open till after the long-weekend. You get home a week later than planned, and it's cost you almost the cost of a new trailer to get a new spring made and freighted to where ever you were.


Won't bombard you anymore, think thats enough as it is your thread. Cheers Waz from Mandurah West Oz
Bombard away. Glad to be some help.

Yonnee.

Yonnee
13th Apr 2008, 01:13 AM
I've got electric brakes on my car trailer wouldn't have anything else.

2 points slightly different from Yonnee's

you can adjust the pressure on the brakes so if its empty you can ease them off and if you have a heavy load you can increase the effect of the trailer brakes.

:doh::doh::doh::doh::doh::doh::doh::doh::doh:
It's one of the best features of Electric brakes, and I forgot to mention it!:B
The adjustability and the control you have over the brakes is from your driver's seat.:2tsup:


If you are stopped facing uphill the brakes work ( same as reversing )
Not quite, that depends on which controller you have fitted to your tow vehicle. Most controllers don't work automatically in reverse, but you still have your manual over-ride control.


When I made my trailer I made the draw bar removeable. You have no idea how handy that is.

I can leave the trailer anywhere and with it removed you can't tow it away.

You can store the trailer in a much smaller space.

It also lets me tilt the trailer as its bolted at the back of the draw bar by 2 bolts as well as at the front of the trailer box. Take out the front 2 bolts and it can be tipped.

I too would like to see some pics.

WazOz
13th Apr 2008, 03:20 AM
I've got electric brakes on my car trailer wouldn't have anything else.

2 points slightly different from Yonnee's

you can adjust the pressure on the brakes so if its empty you can ease them off and if you have a heavy load you can increase the effect of the trailer brakes.

If you are stopped facing uphill the brakes work ( same as reversing )

When I made my trailer I made the draw bar removeable. You have no idea how handy that is.

I can leave the trailer anywhere and with it removed you can't tow it away.

You can store the trailer in a much smaller space.

It also lets me tilt the trailer as its bolted at the back of the draw bar by 2 bolts as well as at the front of the trailer box. Take out the front 2 bolts and it can be tipped.
Great Durwood, convinced me along with Yonee on Electric brakes, have seen removable hitches not drawbars, pics would be nice and thanks

WazOz
13th Apr 2008, 03:37 AM
Thanks.


Yes!
In a tray that size you can put a fair load and legally you're only allowed up to 750kg, including the weight of the trailer, without brakes.

If the axle is a trailer axle with a standard bearing configuration, then all that's required is to jig up and weld a mounting flange on each side for the brake backing plates, bolting up the brake assemblies, fitting new drums and bearings, and wire or plumb up the brakes.

Perfectly!
Get as much advice as you think you need, the rest is a confidence thing. If you're confident in your ability to do a good job, then hop to it. If not, then either learn, and gain the confidence to do the job properly, or don't do it at all.


Trailer springs are short, therefore inherently harsh, but are cheap and will do the job fine. Either 'slipper' or 'eye and eye' are fine, 'eye to eye' being a little dearer, but a little quieter, but have more moving parts to maintain.
If you go the way of car/4WD springs, you'll have a great ride quality, require more room for fitment as they're longer than trailer springs, and also require shock absorbers to be set up to stop the trailer 'wallowing' all over the place. Everyone has an opinion on what's best and why their opinion is better, so I'll just give you this scenario...
'You go bush with your trailer and break a standard spring. You limp to the nearest roadhouse/workshop. They carry a small range of stuff, fan belts, universal fit radiator hoses, etc. and some trailer bearings. You might get lucky and they carry a couple of slipper springs just for this sort of thing. Or someone knows someone just down the road with an old 6x4 you can pinch a spring from. You get home, allbeit a little lighter in the pocket.

What's that?? You've got springs from the rear of a 1986 Hilux...
The nearest Toyota dealer is 1200 kms away, who has to order it in...
The nearest wreckers is alomst as far, And the nearest springworks isn't open till after the long-weekend. You get home a week later than planned, and it's cost you almost the cost of a new trailer to get a new spring made and freighted to where ever you were.


Bombard away. Glad to be some help.

Yonnee.Many thanks Yonee, appreciate your time and effort. Will go with eye to eye springs:2tsup: will order hangers from Ebay or see who has them in Mandurah.
It is a standard axle with bearings and a 6stud hub, any pics on how the the drum and brake setup goes? apologies for ignorance, may go with 5 stud rims, more prevalent than 6stud. Would you use Gas with the Mig? and what size wire?, :no:Q's q's q's:no:. also is 60% to 40% correct for axle? Thanks again.
Waz

WazOz
13th Apr 2008, 02:50 PM
Hi again, found this US site, for boat trailer builds, specs etc, thought it may help someone wanting to build a boat trailer or adapt the drawings and build a box.
http://www.fishyfish.com/trailer.pdf
Know this is Yonees post, but like a few ppl like me, needing help, until they put a trailer section here, had to post in here, sorry Yonee:no:. Couldn't see any copyright protection anywhere:o

Stufart
13th Apr 2008, 06:43 PM
Yonnee

Im about to build a boat trailer for my 7.3 meter center console alloy boat. I have built the boat, well almost anyway. I have all the steel ready to get going, I was wondering if you would be kind enough to offer advice as I go. I can post pics for your to scrutinize if you like. I will start another post so I dont hijack yours. I will be ready in the next day or two.

Stu
Sunshine Coast QLD

durwood
13th Apr 2008, 07:56 PM
I hope this gets through this is the third time I have tried to post and for some reason I keep getting a microsoft message and the damn thing disappears.

Here we go. Lucky you guys asked for the photo's I need to get to and do a bit of maintainance, there is a few rusty bits that need attention.

First this trailer was made about 27 years ago.I used the measurements off a friends trailer who had it professionally made. It was so great to tow that I copied the measurements but made a few changes ( You can easily tow at 100Kmh with it behind a Falcon and it just sits there. )

There were a few things that I didn't like about his. One was the ramps he had were big heavy ones which bolted onto the draw bar. I made slides and the timber ones I use go up under the floor at the back. I made the tailgate drop below them so you can then pull them out and hook them onto the back floor. The tailgate also comes off by just lifting it off the hinges and sliding back the side straps. (Pic 3)

It is just a big box trailer 12ft long 6 ft wide 1ft sides in 18 gauge steel. The suspension is rubber torque, The floor is tallowwood floor boards. It is great for small cars and fantastic for anything else. The local garden centre once advertised you could have a box trailer full of mulch for $20 should have seen his face when I rolled up , It holds about 4 times as much as a normal box trailer. Great for moving big stuff.

You should be able to see how the draw bar works, two 1/2inch bolts fix it at the front of the chassis (pic 5)

the back bolts are 3/4" by 4" high tensile if you undo the front ones it pivots on the back. Take them out unplug the wiring unhook the handbrake cable and the draw bar is can be taken away. It only takes afew minutes.(Pic1)

I normally don't have the high tarp on but I have been using it to store junk while I organise the shed. The frame for it is 1" tube which has sockets to put it together (the ends are shrunk down to fit inside the the expanded other ends)

I have always had one rule I don't lend it for anyone to put a car on. The car I tow doesn't have doors so I can get out of it easily when its driven onto the trailer but modern ones you would have to climb out of the window. Its not built heavy enough for most cars anyway but having seen what people do to borrowed trailers I suggest you keep an eye on who you lend yours to,if you do.

DJ’s Timber
13th Apr 2008, 08:06 PM
Thanks durwood :2tsup:, looks and sounds like a good set up.

Yonnee
14th Apr 2008, 01:30 AM
That's Ok I don't really mind.

Durwood,

Niiiiice. Looks like an AL-KO axle set.

For those that don't know, as well as standard trailer axles, AL-KO make an Independent Rubber Suspension that works on a twisting action of a clover leaf shaped inner tube, compressing three solid rubber rods against a hexagonal (more like a triangle with its sides bowed out) shaped outer tube. Welded to the inner tube is a trailing arm with stub axle. They're great for boat trailers as you can option the outer tube to be galvanized and the mounting brackets doubled to allow you to 'U'bolt the axle/s to the trailer rather than welding or drilling through the chassis.
Their big drawback is overloading and subsequent failure. If you break it (usually you'll tear the trailing arm off the inner tube), you have to remove the whole axle and send it back to AL-KO to pull apart, re-make and replace a new arm assembly, and send it back to you.


Waz,

Be careful of using American based websites for trailer information. Our regulations may differ from those in the States and you could end up with advice that's not applicable or legal here.
Try this one (http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/publications/pdf/roads_vsb_01.pdf). This is my trailer "Bible". It's the Australian Fedral Reg's and will give you all the technical information as to lights, reflectors, mudguard requirements, etc.



Stufart,

Firstly, Welcome aboard.

I'd be happy to help in any way. The biggest trick with boat trailers is axle placement. You don't follow the standard rule for a box trailer, and even two trailers with the same boat but different size motors will have different axle placement.

Is this a salt or fresh water boat? And if it's salt, are you planning to Gal dip the trailer? If not, we'll be doing this all over again in 5-10 years.:o


I'll be ready when you are.


Cheers,

Yonnee.

durwood
14th Apr 2008, 12:26 PM
Hi Yonnee,
You are right they are AL-KO axles. One of the reasons I don't lend it as you explained overload them and they fail I made sure the ones I used were way higher rated than I really needed.

One thing that really got to me when I built my trailer was the poor quality of most of the hardware for them. Especially the ball couplings, the castings are so rough with saw tooth notches for the parking brake lever that were not deep enough for a lever to lock into and ball sockets which were way loose. Even the safety catch notch stopping the lock under the ball didn't work as they didn't have the casting finished well enough for the spring loaded catch to actually hook into the notch. I havn't needed to buy any parts for years but they still look to me to be lousy. I noticed the ones available overseas are of much better quality, especially the ones in the USA. They are made like a piece of high tech equipment not like a bit of back street casting. When I'm in the States later on this year I intend buying one to replace my ball coupling.

Yonnee
14th Apr 2008, 06:20 PM
Hi Yonnee,
You are right they are AL-KO axles. One of the reasons I don't lend it as you explained overload them and they fail I made sure the ones I used were way higher rated than I really needed.

One thing that really got to me when I built my trailer was the poor quality of most of the hardware for them. Especially the ball couplings, the castings are so rough with saw tooth notches for the parking brake lever that were not deep enough for a lever to lock into and ball sockets which were way loose. Even the safety catch notch stopping the lock under the ball didn't work as they didn't have the casting finished well enough for the spring loaded catch to actually hook into the notch. I havn't needed to buy any parts for years but they still look to me to be lousy. I noticed the ones available overseas are of much better quality, especially the ones in the USA. They are made like a piece of high tech equipment not like a bit of back street casting. When I'm in the States later on this year I intend buying one to replace my ball coupling.

Back then, you did say it was 27 years old, you wouldn't have had much choice over Carter Wesco. Now AL-KO have their own range of couplings, and Melbourne Trailer & Caravan Supplies use Trigg Brothers' couplings. Neither of these I've had a major quality issue with. As for the separate hand brake lever, the cast ones are rubbish. There are some fabricated steel one that are much nicer and neater.

The only thing I'd be careful of with a coupling from the States is the lack of the Australian Standards number. The problem would arise if the coupling failed in any way and caused an accident resulting in injury or a fatality.

Stufart
14th Apr 2008, 09:35 PM
Yonnee

Thanks very much for the offer of help. The trailer is going to be for a saltwater boat. I was going to get it hot metal sprayed as I have been informed that this method is 10 times better than hot gal dipped. Im using Al-Ko axles. Would it help to find out the center of gravity from my naval architect who designed the boat for the placement of the axles?.

Stu

autogenous
14th Apr 2008, 11:36 PM
Love your work Yonee. I have to rebuild the work trailer except Im going for an Aluminum box tray to reduce the rusting out.

Yonnee
15th Apr 2008, 01:11 AM
Thanks autogenous, love doing it.:2tsup:

* Why do people leave out the 2nd 'N'?? It's such a simple name, even has a meaning in some dictionaries (spelt with an 'IE')...
:sigh: *


Stu, (BTW, my 8yr old son would love your user name. He reckons potty humour is the funniest thing!):rofl:

I'll take your word on the hot metal spraying, but I can't see it getting inside the tubing as gal does. Probably pay to look into it further.

As for the centre of gravity, might be handy, although if the trailer chassis is parallel and you get the "Marine" brackets on the AL-KO's, then you can slide the axles back and forth to get the ideal coupling weight.

...just a thought...

If you are able to get the centre of gravity measurement, then you can keep this area clear of cross rails that get in the way of axle placement and adjustability.

potter24
18th Apr 2008, 04:31 PM
Hi Im only new on here, im about to start building my own trailer and was wondering where i should put the axel. should it go in the centre or just behind? im going to be making a 7x4 aluminium trailer. i will make the draw bar about 1500mm long. anything else you can help me with?

By the way yours looks tops

Josh

Yonnee
18th Apr 2008, 06:39 PM
Hey Josh,

Thanks, and Welcome.:2tsup:

The standard rule for box trailers is for every foot of body length (7' in your case) the axle is placed 1/2" to the rear of centre (3.5" in your case).

1500mm from the front of your front cross rail is a good drawbar length.

Hope this helps,

Yonnee.

potter24
18th Apr 2008, 07:11 PM
Awesome thanks Yonnee but i don't understand the 1/2" 3.5" thing

does that mean i put the axle 3.5 inches behind halfway?

Thanks

Yonnee
18th Apr 2008, 10:06 PM
...for every foot of body length, the axle is placed 1/2" to the rear of centre.

7' x 1/2" = 3.5"


does that mean i put the axle 3.5 inches behind halfway?
You got it!:2tsup:


And that's the centre of the box, or tray part of the trailer, not overall!



Yonnee.

potter24
19th Apr 2008, 03:12 AM
cool as thanks, its friday my brain works abit slowerer today

potter24
1st May 2008, 05:28 PM
ok Change of plans going to be making a steel one now.
are the sizes you have in your first post good for an allround trailer? ill be using it to carry dirt and it will have a camper bolted to it a few times a year.
Is the 75x50 just used for Draw bar or the outsides of the chassis as well?

Thanks Josh

Yonnee
1st May 2008, 08:42 PM
Most are 40mm square frame with anything from 50x40mm R.H.S., to 50mm angle, to 75x50mm R.H.S. Drawbars.

I've used 75x50 for the rear cross bar as well to enable me to recess the No.plate and light. But I had to reinforce it as I cut a fair chunk out of it.

Yonnee
19th Jul 2008, 12:53 AM
Wow, 1st of May since the last update.:~ Shame on me.

Then again, there hasn't been much done. Though I have tidied up and re-arranged stuff in the shed a fair bit.

I needed to get the trailer mobile, as I have just taken a deposit for another trailer that a forum member wants built. So when I start that, I'll be starting another thread.

It's not much, but getting the springs on means I can fit up an axle, and move it around more easily.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/7x4%20Trailer/7x4build032.jpg

Setting up the rear hanger...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/7x4%20Trailer/7x4build033.jpg

Spring in, ready for axle.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/7x4%20Trailer/7x4build034.jpg

Wild Dingo
29th Jul 2008, 03:35 PM
Gidday Yonnee
Mate Ive been told several conflicting things with regard that spring setup so thought okay heres a bloke that ACTUALLY makes the things so...

Mate with that final picture how do you work out its spot? You fit the one with the bolt first right then the other one and weld that plate in place on the U shaped bit?

Next were do I loca... mmmm okay someone else just asked that axle question eh? :doh:

aah buggar it I'll just start to welding the frame work up and when Ive done that bit I'll post some pics and ask the questions maybe that will make some sence eh?

Ooh Im making a heavy duty subframe for a pommy camper thats got thin ali frame and a next to childs toy size axle and wheel set up that really doesnt go real well with the 4x4 in that the kitchen section which hangs of the ???? end ends up 2in from the road!!!... anyways thats what Im makin!! :2tsup: 4inx2in RHS Im a usin!! got the axle an hubs an springs all in the shed just gotta get some clear weather and time and she'll be jake mate :;

Cheers
Shane

Yonnee
29th Jul 2008, 06:50 PM
It's OK Shane, I know what you're asking without pics.

Usually, once you set up the front hangers, the rears are set up with 10mm of the spring hanging out the rear of the hanger. This is so the when you're reversing and you hit a bump, you don't push the spring out of the hanger.


Look forward to seeing your own progress.:2tsup:

Ain'tMisbehavin
2nd Aug 2008, 07:20 AM
Yonnee,

May I ask: Ref the placing of wheels and axles and your "you must allow 1/2 inch rule". Question is this rule still the same for twin-axles?

Question: I have studied tow ball hitches and they always "look highly unsteady to me" because they are round and ball-like and slippery looking. Am I wrong in thinking they could do with the top 3/4 of an inch sawn off and the top of a ball hitch should be flat and smooth to maintain or increase towing stability? I see them as devices for pulling the trailer along, and the "round bit on top" is not needed. Whats your views on this. I have enjoyed your articles and posts and have opened a scrap book to paste your advice in.

Bob. [New member interested in trailers and their construction]

Yonnee
2nd Aug 2008, 12:47 PM
Yonnee,

May I ask: Ref the placing of wheels and axles and your "you must allow 1/2 inch rule". Question is this rule still the same for twin-axles?

Yes. The same rule applies to most trailers with any number of axles. The measurement is taken from the front of the main body of the trailer (excluding the drawbar) to the centre of the group of the axle(s). So in the case of a tandem (twin axle), the rule applies to the centre hanger, and in a tri-axle it applies to the centre axle, etc.
However, the rule does not apply to all trailers. Certain circumstances where the load being carried on or in a trailer is such that the weight of the load is centred toward the rear of the trailer, and requires the axle(s) to be placed further back. Eg; Boat trailer, Horse Float.
Also, the reason that all trailers aren't built with their axles as far back as possible, like a semi-trailer (prime mover), is that the structure of the rear of most tow vehicles does not allow for an excessive tow ball load.


Question: I have studied tow ball hitches and they always "look highly unsteady to me" because they are round and ball-like and slippery looking. Am I wrong in thinking they could do with the top 3/4 of an inch sawn off and the top of a ball hitch should be flat and smooth to maintain or increase towing stability? I see them as devices for pulling the trailer along, and the "round bit on top" is not needed. Whats your views on this. I have enjoyed your articles and posts and have opened a scrap book to paste your advice in.

Bob. [New member interested in trailers and their construction]

Bob,
I'm not quite sure what you mean by "highly unsteady".
Firstly, lets get our terminology straight. Here in Australia, the coupling is the connector attached to the front of the trailer that connects the trailer to the tow vehicle. The tow ball is a removable ball with its own threaded shank that attaches to the towbar tongue.
The towbar tongue is a removable part of the towbar that the tow ball bolts to, and is major cause of 'towbar shin', an affliction usually seen in most carparks.
The towbar is the part bolted securely to the tow vehicle.

Now, when towing a trailer, the connection between tow vehicle and trailer requires quite a large range of movement. Not only does it have to turn corners, but it must be able to endure the same loads when travelling undulating hills, humps, bumps, mounds, driveways, cross-overs, gutters, etc. Hence, this is why the tow ball is a round ball, and the coupling is designed to sit neatly over this ball while allowing the wide range of movement required.
Our tow balls here in Oz usually do have a small flat section on top, mainly for stamping the towball size (there used to be a range of tow ball and coupling sizes available until they were standardised in 1988, although they're still allowed to be used on vehicles before this date). I don't know how this effects towing stability. In my opinion, towing stability comes from how the trailer is built, its axles placement, and the where the load is placed in the trailer.

Thank-you for your kind comments, and I hope you continue to enjoy my articles.

Yonnee.
(Peter) :2tsup:

Ain'tMisbehavin
3rd Aug 2008, 02:23 AM
Once more thank you Yonnee for your expert advice. I'm grateful for what you say, as you may have guessed when it comes to trailers I'm pig-ignorant, I make up for this by having to run faster than anyone else when it comes to learning things. Thank you.

Bob.

Yonnee
3rd Aug 2008, 11:28 AM
Any time Bob.
I've already helped one bloke on the other side of the country, now it's the other side of the world.

Yonnee
3rd Aug 2008, 12:12 PM
I've had a couple of other jobs on the go at the moment, a Dusty enclosure for a Forum member, a Trailer for another Forum member, and clearing a bit of the shed to start an engine swap.

But I did manage to find my Orminoid Bitumen paint and paint the top of my chassis yesterday. Hopefully this will keep any rust from forming between the chassis and the floor where you can't normally paint. I'll look at marking and painting the floor sheet along the same points before I weld it in.

Chooks74
28th Jan 2009, 03:02 PM
I know I may be resurrecting an old thread, but did this trailer get finished, I was enjoying reading and the piccies.:D

Yonnee
30th Jan 2009, 08:01 PM
Nope. Not finished, just on the backburner... big time.

But if you've had a good read, this should answer some of your questions for your trailer.

billymm
20th Apr 2009, 11:05 PM
great write-up yonnee & thanks for the detailed pics..... step by step makes repairing/ changing/rebuild a lot easier

Im looking forwrad to seeing it when its all finished

billy :;

Yonnee
21st Apr 2009, 12:15 AM
great write-up yonnee & thanks for the detailed pics..... step by step makes repairing/ changing/rebuild a lot easier

Im looking forwrad to seeing it when its all finished

billy :;

So am I Billy... so am I.

It's on the backburner at the moment, as I'm in the middle of another build for one customer, and some modifications for another, along with a vehicle that's just let its timing belt go, and another that needs to be got to roadworthy for sale, and a deck that needs to be tiled...
I'm lucky to find time to go to my day job!!!

Bouncingmolar
15th May 2009, 03:03 PM
This is an awesome thread. Nice work.

Bazzmate
15th May 2009, 10:18 PM
:whs: and yes, we are all patiently waiting for the day when Yonnee gets Too few projects, Lots more time and Even more money, so he can finish the trailer.

Yonnee
16th May 2009, 11:50 AM
:thanx2: I can't believe how quick the time goes. Nearly 9 months since I've done anything to it!! :oops: And there'll be a bit longer yet! :guilty:

Currently I'm up to my armpits in Pajero engine bays doing an engine swap. I've got till Queen's Birthday weekend to have the good engine in and running, and then four weeks to make sure it's all good so we can drive accross two states and back. :2tsup:

But I digress...


I've been having second thoughts about the rear cross rail with the number plate hanging down like it will. My father's trailer has been like this for over 30 years and has never really been a drama, but I own a 4WD and I think that the number plate might be a little vulnerable in that location. (I've already caught dad's trailer once on a spoon drain) So... now I'm trying to think of another way of positioning the number plate and light/s.

The one thought that keeps popping up is a wider section of RHS in the centre where the plate sits, with a light either side, rather than one light above. And although this will still hang down, the extra RHS will protect the plate better, and the light either side will gain me about an inch.

billymm
16th May 2009, 12:50 PM
I've been having second thoughts about the rear cross rail with the number plate hanging down like it will. My father's trailer has been like this for over 30 years and has never really been a drama, but I own a 4WD and I think that the number plate might be a little vulnerable in that location. (I've already caught dad's trailer once on a spoon drain) So... now I'm trying to think of another way of positioning the number plate and light/s.

Its only a thought but what about a length of c channel (eg 125 x 65 x 5mm) running across the entire width of back of trailer, wide enough to fit the lights (on their sides) & the number plate onto the inside of the C that way both the lights & plate is protected

VXEXEC350
17th May 2009, 08:59 PM
:thanx2: I can't believe how quick the time goes. Nearly 9 months since I've done anything to it!! :oops: And there'll be a bit longer yet! :guilty:

Currently I'm up to my armpits in Pajero engine bays doing an engine swap. I've got till Queen's Birthday weekend to have the good engine in and running, and then four weeks to make sure it's all good so we can drive accross two states and back. :2tsup:

But I digress...


I've been having second thoughts about the rear cross rail with the number plate hanging down like it will. My father's trailer has been like this for over 30 years and has never really been a drama, but I own a 4WD and I think that the number plate might be a little vulnerable in that location. (I've already caught dad's trailer once on a spoon drain) So... now I'm trying to think of another way of positioning the number plate and light/s.

The one thought that keeps popping up is a wider section of RHS in the centre where the plate sits, with a light either side, rather than one light above. And although this will still hang down, the extra RHS will protect the plate better, and the light either side will gain me about an inch.

Or get a slimline number plate:)

Yonnee
17th May 2009, 09:10 PM
Or get a slimline number plate:)
Not available in Victoria for trailers.


Its only a thought but what about a length of c channel (eg 125 x 65 x 5mm) running across the entire width of back of trailer, wide enough to fit the lights (on their sides) & the number plate onto the inside of the C that way both the lights & plate is protected

Hmm, I've seen trailers done this way, particularly alot of QLD built trailers and motorbike trailers, and I just don't like the look. And because the number plate is 136mm wide, I'd need a 150mm channel to make the plate fit. I'm going to be using fairly narrow LED's, so they'd also get lost in a 150mm channel.

I'm thinking of going back to this setup, but without the reverse lamp, and centreing it. I'll use the 6" RHS piece in the other photo on the first page, and cut'n'shut it into the 3" rail. I'm thinking of adding in some trianguler pieces either side to taper up from either side of the bottom of the 6" piece too.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Yonnee/7x4%20Trailer/7x4build003.jpg

I'll fabricate the new bar first and see how it looks. Then we'll start cutting up an almost perfectly good chassis. :2tsup:

naddis01
14th Jun 2010, 09:20 PM
I know I am digging up an old thread, but I had to sign up just to say that this is an awesome thread which I will use to build my trailer with a difference.

Did the trailer ever get finished?

Yonnee
15th Jun 2010, 01:09 AM
Firstly, Welcome aboard.

To answer the question, Nope. Still at rolling chassis stage. Been doing a couple of other projects that actually have a time limit.

I had been toying with the idea of selling it though...


Looking forward to seeing your own project. Be sure to keep us posted.

naddis01
15th Jun 2010, 08:30 AM
I will but it may be a long term project as well. :wink:

I might post pics of my old trailer/camper tonight if I get a chance.

RicB
27th Aug 2010, 05:09 PM
I had been toying with the idea of selling it though...

:oo: what, bugger, this is like finding there is a couple of missing pages at the end of a really good novel, a missing piece of a jiggsaw puzzle, driving for a week to discover WallyWorld is closed, getting married and discov...... you get the idea. :(

wetplanet
22nd Jul 2011, 10:58 PM
Thanks, Yonnee, enjoying the read & the pics. :)
"The beatings will continue...." What a classic...!

mid life crisis
7th Nov 2011, 11:32 PM
i never thought i would be joining a wood craft group to get the best trailer info on the net :):). i am about to build 2 car carriers one for my self and one for a friend whos race car ive been building,
frame section will be 4800.. long and 1980 mm wide inside measurements.

i have already got the springs and axles 45 mm sq with the leading axle fitted with elec brakes both axles have a 4 inch drop in them and the trailers will be designed to tilt .i will do a photo by photo shoot as work progresses altho im sure it will be a little while b4 work starts so bear with us on this .

ive just bought a new lincon 180c migwelder to help us along .after seeing some places wanted for a trailer like the one i want im sure i can build one for around $2500 bucks ive already gotten the springs axles brakes and mudgaurds wholsale price thru a friends work . i also picked up 5 commodore sle mags for a 100 bucks for it too roll on .after building rollcages and stuff im really looking forward to this project and the readings of some of you guys has inspired me to pull my finger out ,i hope i dont bombard some of you fella's with 2 many questions as i go along regards dean aka mid life crisis ..