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View Full Version : An update on me mig!



Wild Dingo
5th Aug 2007, 06:55 AM
Well as Ive had the Transmig 135 turbo for a few months now I thought Id give you all a bit of an update... or review... whatever!! :;

Its a bloody little beauty!! :2tsup:

Seriously... its a beauty!... no I mean it... its a ridgey didge bloody little rip snorter!!... damned glad I took the stick welder back and paid the extra for this one worth every cent! :2tsup:

Ive just completed a whoppin great cage for the 8x5 trailer... using old shytey steel that I had laying around... theory was if she could weld this stuff she could weld anything I would throw at her... so... man was it FUN!!!... Now Ive just GOTTA get some good metal to weld into something!!

I got the young fella from next door to walk me through it... he being a boiler maker he was keen as mustard to have "a play" so over he comes checks it out makes sure I had set it up right and all was good to go... got his tick of approval... then he takes a shot at one of the frames with me lookin on over his shoulder... done... before I could blink hes finished it!! FAST?? BLOODY HELL IT WAS QUICK!!... checked it no slag no miswelds... give it a belt with the hammer perfect!... just beautiful two bits of metal made into one

He turns to me smiles and says "Your turn mate away you go" I face up to the metal he corrects my stance then gives me a couple of quick hints one being to throw the helmets that I got away and get one of the new auto darkening ones cause the one that came with it and the one I bought were crap... and so with that I go to it... man what a bloody corker of a thing!! :2tsup:

He laughs as I stop lift the helmet and smile "you'll be right mate easy as have fun and any questions just give me a hoi" and off he goes.

The welder hasnt stopped since... every clear day Im out there goin ballistic!!

The thin stuff was fun working the settings out... but heavy angle to angle metal? EASY AS!! smooth and simple... actually I thought Id have issues with the angle iron as it was pretty rust covered but with a quick wizz with the grinder and an upward adjustment to the settings it fair sizzled through it!

Seriously its like writing with a pen its that damned easy!! the settings thing is a bit of a trial for the thinner metals but still once you get it its friggin amazing!! Initially I was a bit iffy about the mig as Id only every had a stick welder and I wasnt too crash hot with that.. so I wasnt too steady on my feet to begin with with this thing... but after a few mis settings (trial and error) remembering to grind of paint rust and other snot and grinding a section for the clamp it goes like a real sweet lady absolute bottler! :2tsup:

ahem... just thought Id update a bit... sorry got a tad excited there :B

must admit the job itself looks a real shocker made a fair few muckups and forgot to weld the ends of the mesh to the uprights of the frames :doh: ...but hey for first from a mig virgin not to bloody bad in my book! :2tsup:

Cheers for all your help advice and encouragement fellas!!

Grahame Collins
5th Aug 2007, 09:26 AM
Gidday Wild Dingo,
Its good to hear thats things are working out so well you will need an operation to take the smile off your face.

I thought I would mention some things that may make life with the mig even easier.

Firstly the nozzle. the spatter if not cleaned off regularly, it will either build up and fall off at that special moment into your weld pool of your best ever weld, or build up and bridge across the gap between contact tip and shroud and arc off an insanely large chunk.

This can only happen when you don't have a spare,out of hours, and not close to the shops.

If you can scrounge a bit of old power hacksaw blade they are ideal to grind into a slight taper wedge shape that will fit into the mouth of the shroud (nozzle ) and act as a scraper.

Second is a decent pair of side cutters . When you finish a bead and release the trigger its usually automatic on our part to pull the gun away. The air then oxidises the end of the burnt wire stub.

Its not ideal to start a new bead with that and is advisable to snip that burn't bit off. Often but not always ,one can get a hole or a bubble at the start of a weld bead from an oxidised stub.


Another thing is corrosion. If like my area,where you live , it is rust city,then some protection of your wire spool is warranted. Some machines have a drop over plastic trailing strip that drags over the top half of the wire spool.

If left for more than a couple of days without use, the top half of the spool gets a rust deposit where it penetrates the copper cladding which is only a few thou thick.

What happens is that the rust breaking through the wire cladding causes the drive rollers to slip and skid. From there it is only a short progression to wire birds nests and break offs around the roller drives. It also contaminates the the wire liners.
Some inexperienced operators mistake the on and off slip and go again again for an electrical adjustment problem which then makes it makes it worse.

A quick and dirty fix is a garbage bag but remember it is there before you start again.

And finally remember to turn your gas off at the cylinder not the regulator.The damm things will leak your expensive gas over time.

Last the most important ,the radiation the migs kick out is much ,much more than the stick.I hope you have not found this out already. The operator must be covered up or it will burn the shyte out of you on a big job.

Did your machine come with a trolley?.Its a really worth while project if the machine is a bit on the heavy side. A few bucks on some swivel wheels and some spare steel sections and your away.


I hope these few small tips will keep the smile on your dial.

Grahame

Al B
5th Aug 2007, 09:32 AM
Sounds like your having too much fun with the new MIG welder, Great stuff WD :2tsup:

PS: Hope your going to show us some pics of your metal masterpieces.

rpepper
5th Aug 2007, 10:37 AM
Hi Ding,

Good to hear you're enjoying it. I was the same when I got my little Lincoln.

I did what Grahame suggested and built a trolley to put the machine down low with a table (ply top) over it - even as a seat, or to leave tools on. Well, I slid the machine under, facing forward (Corgon cyl. at back with straps to some uprights) and felt very satisfied until I realised I couldn't open the side door :oo:

So I put it on top and I wheel it around and pretend that I designed it that way! Beats getting a hernia.

The best thing about welding is not just making things but fixing things up, and feeling useful. Mind you I'd rather not weld up something that might be critical in service.

Happy welding. :2tsup:

Regards,

Richard

Wild Dingo
5th Aug 2007, 08:59 PM
Cheers fellas.. yeah its a great smile!! :2tsup: I just love it when things go RIGHT!! :;

Thanks for those tips Grahame :2tsup: I got the message LOUD AND CLEAR about covering up after the first days use :C whole left arm from wrist to elbow was BEETROOT RED!!! :o and so these last couple of days Ive had me shirt sleeves bolted down with the gauntlets and the leather apron on... trouble was today I sorta forgot to bolt the shirt buttons down to the neck and well... Beetroot red AGAIN :C Dumbass! :doh:

Ive noticed that sometimes she seems to stop or stutter the wire feed but have been giving it a tap or a couple of taps and that seems to clear it if not I get a pair of pliers and give the wire a gentle tug and that works... the little ball of snot that sometimes ends up at the end Ive started cutting of whenever it appears after a weld... still working on the feed thing... but still its friggin amazingly quick!

A trolley is next on the list... Although I dont think I will use the gas bottles and probably only get the gasless wire as its easier and Im basically a lazy buggar and well running out of gas right at a crucial moment does not enthrall me with confidence or me usual happy disposition so I will probably stick with the gasless modus operation

The trolley I was thinking of adapting one of them cheep Bunnys jobs then thought why?... me have welder me just need steel an a couple of whizzy things me make trolley! ugh ugh ugh... me tinker therefore me am! :U Id not thought of making a seat as a part of the trolley but definantly have the unit at arms height for ease of access perhaps some rails under for clamps a couple of hooks for the leads and a wooden box for the gas bottle fitting to keep it out of harms way... but yeah I really have to make one! :2tsup:

Had the missus out in the shed for a bit of a quiet time this arvo and she asked if I thought it was worth the extra $ over the stick welder and mates I think shes convinced that Im one happy chappy! worth every centablo of cost and feel confident to recommend one to anyone... still a place for the stick welders for sure but for a good quick welding unit this little buggar cant be beat I reckon... nothing seems to faze it

Okay... have to post a "gripe" thread so thanks again fellas :2tsup:

Grahame Collins
5th Aug 2007, 09:32 PM
Wd
Good Job you reminded me of something. Contact tips, they are really one of the critical points as thats where the electricity is passed to the wire.

Every now and then, rip it out and file the end flat to get rid of the little hole in the end where the wire sticks with that little knobby thing. Replace it if its still fartin about.

Check the thickness of the cheap trolley.I did the same only with a Super Cheap Auto trolley. The wall thickness is a thin as a hostel blanket. The wheels however are ok and much cheaper than buying a pair separate.

Grahame

NCArcher
6th Aug 2007, 05:41 PM
Thanks Mr Dingo, or can i just call you Wild?
I have had an arc welder for years, the CIG fan cooled job and it has done the job admirably.
I'm now looking at a Gas/Gasless MIG. If you don't mind, how much are we talking about for the Transmig 135?
I've got lots of hard steel to join with bright light...argh argh argh...but its all thin wall so the MIG is the way to go.
What are your, and anyone elses thoughts re gasless vs gas.
Is the gasless application limited? Material thickness/type.

faex
6th Aug 2007, 06:18 PM
If you don't mind, how much are we talking about for the Transmig 135?.

http://www.justtools.com.au/prod1312.htm

Grahame Collins
6th Aug 2007, 07:28 PM
5?
I've got lots of hard steel to join with bright light...argh argh argh...but its all thin wall so the MIG is the way to go.
What are your, and anyone elses thoughts re gasless vs gas.


It is a question that comes up on a regular basis.I think this is the fourth or fifth time if have answered this same question.
If you are talking car panels and sheet below 1.6mm do not waste your money.Sorry! its a case of having your cake and wanting to eat it too!.

The simple facts are that flux core was designed for heavy industry application and was never intended as a handy man el cheapo way of avoiding using shielding gas.

Because the manufacturers will sell the flux core in home handyman quantities just means they are willing to take your money and are not endorsing FCAW as a mig alternate.The flux core welding process is not the best and most cost effective way of joining sheet metal.

Having said that there will be always someone who will argue.What most of them don't realise is that the flux is acidic and will eat its way out from under a nice paint job if you leave even a tiny bit there.

Welding sheet metal without getting inclusions from fluxcore is difficult.

If it is thicker material, I would say go for it, being aware of the acidic nature of the flux under paint.

I don't wish to rain on anyones parade but at the same time would hate to see anyone spend a grand or so on some machine which will not suit them.

Perhaps a gas/gasless machine would suit you better.
Are you aware that a cylinder can be hired over a short term like a month. Do all you welding and use up the gas and return the cylinder and it will cost you very little.Then switch back to gasless.

Grahame

Wild Dingo
6th Aug 2007, 10:24 PM
Gidday Grahame
Im a tad confused by your answer there mate.

Due to the cost of the cylinder Ive gone so far with just the cored wire (I can go both) and its welded what Ive so far thrown at it, I must admit Im no wizzz with the thing in fact Ive done buggar all if welding various thickness rusty old steel together to make a cage for the 8x5 trailer counts
but for me so far for ease of use the mig beats the old arc I had and for ability to weld different metals is increadible

I think Im going to have to go get a gas bottle and some wire and have a go to see if its any better

Some of the metals Ive welded were THIN and only became a problem when joining ends it seemed to blow it out pretty quick... and because I was sort of "over it" with the trailer I didnt bother changing the feed rate but I believe it could have gone better and worked if I had... joining side to side it worked a treat even the thin walled stuff (1in box metal god knows what thickness walls but thin ala why I joined two together)

As I understand it both arc and mig have different purposes... my understanding was that for best performance and results the arc will do heavier metals while the mig will do thinner ones... while both will do the same job each has a best performance area.

Im now wondering what you mean... no probs mate just curious about your response is all

As to the price... for me it was $1100 plus the cost of the gauntlets ($40), apron ($80), wire ($100 per x 2) and now 2 helmets (150) its riding up at $1600 and no NEW steel in sight!! :o but then I think its worth every cent and am rapt with it :2tsup: (even if it was a fair bit dearer than that one linked to :doh:

Cliff Rogers
7th Aug 2007, 12:44 AM
Thanks Mr Dingo, or can i just call you Wild?...
We call him Ding. :D

Wild Dingo
7th Aug 2007, 12:52 AM
We call him Ding. :D

Nah just plain ol

SIR

will do thanks! :;

seriously? call me Shane... Dingo... Ding... anything you like really except dingaling or dingy dont know why but those to just dont cut it for me :doh:

Grahame Collins
7th Aug 2007, 01:53 AM
Hi Wild Dingo,
The answer was in response to NCArcher. I was attempting to point out that fluxcore is not a substitute for mig in cases where the the weld is on sheet metal of car body thickness.

Not that he said that exactly, but I felt that was what he was aiming at. I supposed I should have answered in a separate post.A bit of thread drift there,my apologies.

Some people seem to have the idea that one can substitute fluxcore for hardwire for all mig functions.

The application you choose was correct I don,t think your trailer would have been under 1.6mm thick.

Others unfortunately have expected the process to perform car panel work on the extra thin metal .One reason it can't is that the polarity is electrode positive which is too hot for th sheet as thin as car metal thickness.

Secondly the wire diameter size required for this thickness sheet ( typically around .6mm) is not available in fluxcore, so the wire diameter heat value is too high to begin with.

You would have read the instructions and pulled the Fluxcore torch like one would a stick .The real clincher is ,I suppose, that industry would use it on car panel application if there were genuine advantage there.

I hope that goes a way to explain it better.
Cheers
Grahame

Wild Dingo
7th Aug 2007, 02:04 AM
Yep Grahame sorts it out right perfekly thank you :; and thread drifts like this are always welcome in my view. :2tsup:

.6? rightio mate no worries there Im on .9 I think and thats plenty thin enough for what Im ever going to do... so IF I ever go down to .6 for some insane reason I havent considered yet I will definantly HAVE TO get the gas bottle right? at what point in wire thickness does it become absolutely necessary to do so as in no cored wire available... I believe both .8 and .9 come cored

nb: I hate doing car work thats why they breed and train grease monkeys an panel bashers for... so its not in my future! :2tsup:

Stu in Tokyo
7th Aug 2007, 02:39 AM
Well WD, I knew you would have fun with the MIG, they are really great, are they not :D

If you think the Fluxcore is cool the bottle welding is even smoother and cleaner too, the only thing is it don't like wind or such, that is where the fluxcore really works great!

I NEVER run out of gas, as the C02 cylinders used to push the draught beer here are the same as the C2/argon mix I usually use (the straight C02 burns a bit hotter is all, good for thicker stuff!).

Yep, just like writing with a liquid metal pen ! :2tsup:

glock40sw
7th Aug 2007, 09:18 AM
G'day All.
I run 0.6mm wire with Migshield gas.
Bought 4 x 15kg rolls off Ebay and respool it onto the 5kg spools.
It is used for everything from car panels right up to 10mm plate.

Just change the settings and weld away.

I use a CIG transmig 165.
Also run 0.8mm ali wire with argon. Works great but have to pre-heat the work with a cheap throwaway bottle gas blowtorch.

NCArcher
7th Aug 2007, 10:25 AM
Thanks Grahame and Ding,
I think the welding will go in spaced bursts of frantic activity with the odd small job in between. So a Gas/Gasless unit with a gas bottle hired for the bigger jobs looks like the way to go.
I need to do a bit more research i think. Still not clear on what gases do what and what type of regulator etc..etc...