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Marc
8th Aug 2013, 08:56 PM
I would like to know what's involved in modifying a military rifle, swedish mauser 6.5x55 for hunting. I read that the stock can be simply swapped for a sport version in synthetic or the original heavily modified.
What else is requiered for good results?
I know some consider this to be a heresy but I am noy religious :U

China
10th Aug 2013, 01:28 AM
Depends on how fancy you want to get, you can cut down the original to suit what you want and leave it at that, or you can purcahse
a after market stock from someone like Boyds in the USA, which is almost drop in (very little fitting), then you need to decide weather or not you want to bed the action, add a aftermarket trigger, drill and tap the receiver for a scope, you may also want to bend the bolt handel down this is almost manditory if you fit a scope also if you fit a scope (and you use a saftey) you will in most case's neeed to fit a low swing safety as the original will not clear the scope.
Also if you decide to go with a synthetic stock don't buy a cheap one some years ago, a company imported Swedish Mauser's into Australia and fitted low quality synthetic stocks and they were a absolute disaster, all synthetic stocks are not the same!

Marc
10th Aug 2013, 09:42 AM
Depends on how fancy you want to get, you can cut down the original to suit what you want and leave it at that, or you can purcahse
a after market stock from someone like Boyds in the USA, which is almost drop in (very little fitting), then you need to decide weather or not you want to bed the action, add a aftermarket trigger, drill and tap the receiver for a scope, you may also want to bend the bolt handel down this is almost manditory if you fit a scope also if you fit a scope (and you use a saftey) you will in most case's neeed to fit a low swing safety as the original will not clear the scope.
Also if you decide to go with a synthetic stock don't buy a cheap one some years ago, a company imported Swedish Mauser's into Australia and fitted low quality synthetic stocks and they were a absolute disaster, all synthetic stocks are not the same!

Thank you China, it sounds like something that can be done. The original barrel is 29", I have seen them cut down to 22, 24 or left original at 29. I tend to think that for long shots the original barrel length re-crowned should do fine..(?)
Yes Boyds stocks are nice, I like the Great American or Richards

Grahame Collins
10th Aug 2013, 10:44 PM
I would like to know what's involved in modifying a military rifle, swedish mauser 6.5x55 for hunting. I read that the stock can be simply swapped for a sport version in synthetic or the original heavily modified.
What else is requiered for good results?
:U

On many sporterised military rifles the stock is generally cut back on the forearm.It was possible at one time to have a stock made if you had the dollars.
A butt rubber pad fitted to replace what is generally a steel one.
Trigger work by a a qualified gunsmith.
Head space checked and worked if necessary.
The action can be bedded.
Sights -either pep type or telescopic.If using a scope ,the bolt handle may need to be rebent to clear the scope for extraction.

That is assuming that the rifling is in good condition.

Grahame

vk4
10th Aug 2013, 10:58 PM
I haven't been on the shooting scene for many years, however I do remember that a rifle calibre has an optimum length, at which it is most accurate, due to the rifling twist and projectile length.

I would consult your gunsmith as to the best barrel length, .

those old Mausers, have a straight bolt handle , and you will need to have it bent if fitting a scope, the safety I will accept the other members advice to have it modified.

I do not know what type of game you will be after, but scoping the rifle , will only improve , your chances of consistent 1 shot kill ,.

If chasing pigs, then a low power wide angle scope , or an aiming point type sight would suit, it would also work well for deer in close cover, at ranges to 100mt .



As with any Military rifle they were built to be idiot proof, and the iron sights while adequate for the military, do not give themselves to sporting use, especially with accurate windage adjustments.

I would opt for a good scope/aim point sight .


VK4

China
11th Aug 2013, 09:30 PM
Marc,

29" would be fine a gunsmith would only charge around $50 to re crown a barrel if you don't have a cutter set, the Swedish Mauser's are a excelent rifle and 6.5x55 is a very acurate caliber, it is used for many competions in europe.

fxst
12th Aug 2013, 12:39 AM
One problem with cutting barrel length down is the noise factor. Mine is bloody loud but it is accurate. Not something I would want to do to a standard Mauser. Unfortunately I didn't find that out until after I bought it :( but its a good hunter

Pete

danielhobby
19th Aug 2013, 10:18 PM
I would add onlu one point to an informative discussion,and that is that a 29" barrel is fine in some quarters of shooting but as a sporter it is very long when combineing a longer butt on a sporting mouse to allow for a scope(my mouses had shortish grip to butt anyway)pushing ones head back a way to avoid a weatherby eyebrow.
My remmington vssf in 220 swift has a 26 in barrel and that is as long as I would want a "carrying" rifle.
just a quiet input gents.

Timless Timber
20th Aug 2013, 02:50 PM
Barrel length created greater accuracy for open sights where you had a longer sighting radius. If you sporterise it and fit a scoope then barrel length has little effect on overall accuracy. 24 inch is more maneuverable in scrub and inside vehicle cabs etc.

That said - you have to allow sufficient length of barrel to burn the amount of powder behind the bullet or you get a large flash at the muzzle every time you fire (which at night will obsure your view of your intended target after the triggers pulled) but will also make for more noise.

The rifling imparts a slight whip of the barrel in the opposite direction to the rifling twist on each chot and for the rifle to be acccurate the barrel has to be at the same point in its cycle as each projectile leaves the barrel... (the rifled action has to "return to battery" or the exact same spot as the previous shot for real repeatable accuracy which is what all the action bedding and barrel free floating process is all about.

The Swedish Mauser in 6.5 x 55 has a very good history for accuracy as a round, and thousands of these rifles have been sporter-ized over the years!.

Good luck with it.

Woodlee
29th Sep 2013, 09:55 AM
I would like to know what's involved in modifying a military rifle, swedish mauser 6.5x55 for hunting. I read that the stock can be simply swapped for a sport version in synthetic or the original heavily modified.
What else is requiered for good results?
I know some consider this to be a heresy but I am noy religious :U


This is my M96 Swedish Mauser in 303-25 ,26 " barrel with the original stock converted to a sporter .the pistol grip has been inlet and a couple of smaller inlets to fill the sling swivel hole and the top of the original steel but plate . The action on mine was made in Germany by(Ludwig Loewe) DWM , but from supplied Swedish steel .
Mhe 96's were also made by Husqvarna and Karl Gustaf . M96 was a carbine length and the M36 was the longer rifle version
The stock has also be chequered . I dont know who did the work on this rifle , but Halls Firearms in Adelaide was doing these conversions in the 50's, it maybe one of thiers.
I have a brand new black walnut stock for mine that I'm going to fit later .
There are after market synthetic stock available from the US and a lot of after market timber ones as well. I think Boyds do timber and maybe Ramline do a synthetic , just google "gun stocks" youll get a heap of links.
Ram-Line Synthetic Gun Stocks (http://www.ramlinestocks.com/ramlinestocks.html)
Richards Microfit Gunstocks (http://rifle-stocks.com/sporter_hunting_styles.htm)
Plenty of after market stuff around for the Swedes , but a lot more around for the German K98 .

6.5x 55 is an excellent hunting cartridge and the M96 Swede action is a fine piece of engineering second only t0 the K98

Marc
2nd Oct 2013, 07:25 PM
This is my M96 Swedish Mauser in 303-25 ,26 " barrel with the original stock converted to a sporter .the pistol grip has been inlet and a couple of smaller inlets to fill the sling swivel hole and the top of the original steel but plate . The action on mine was made in Germany by(Ludwig Loewe) DWM , but from supplied Swedish steel .
Mhe 96's were also made by Husqvarna and Karl Gustaf . M96 was a carbine length and the M36 was the longer rifle version
The stock has also be chequered . I dont know who did the work on this rifle , but Halls Firearms in Adelaide was doing these conversions in the 50's, it maybe one of thiers.
I have a brand new black walnut stock for mine that I'm going to fit later .
There are after market synthetic stock available from the US and a lot of after market timber ones as well. I think Boyds do timber and maybe Ramline do a synthetic , just google "gun stocks" youll get a heap of links.
Ram-Line Synthetic Gun Stocks (http://www.ramlinestocks.com/ramlinestocks.html)
Richards Microfit Gunstocks (http://rifle-stocks.com/sporter_hunting_styles.htm)
Plenty of after market stuff around for the Swedes , but a lot more around for the German K98 .

6.5x 55 is an excellent hunting cartridge and the M96 Swede action is a fine piece of engineering second only t0 the K98
Thank you Woodlee for sharing those photos. Nice work with that mod. Yes, I know the German Mauser to be the best action you can get for custom work, and I wouldn't hesitate to use one of them to build a 308, 3006 or magnum cartridges, however I like the light recoil and precision of the 6.5 particularly for long shots on goats and pigs. I don't think will go for buffalo anytime soon. :U

Woodlee
9th Oct 2013, 08:23 PM
Thank you Woodlee for sharing those photos. Nice work with that mod. Yes, I know the German Mauser to be the best action you can get for custom work, and I wouldn't hesitate to use one of them to build a 308, 3006 or magnum cartridges, however I like the light recoil and precision of the 6.5 particularly for long shots on goats and pigs. I don't think will go for buffalo anytime soon. :U


The Swedish Mauser M96 action was the fore runner to the K98 ,both actions are of the same design , apart from the fact that the Swedish Mauser cocks on closing and the K98 Mauser cocks on opening , the 98 also has a safety locking lug at the rear of the bolt where the Swede does not.
The 98 Mauser designed action was made under licence by many countries for thier military , Argentine , Turkey ,Spain just to name a few.
The Swedish Mauser was made in two configurations , The M96 carbine and the M39 (IIRC) was a full length rifle .
Manufacturers of the Swedish Mauser were Karl Gustaf , Husqvarna and Ludwig Loewe (DWM Berlin) the steel was supplied to DWM by the Swedish Govt to manufacture the actions in Germany .

You could easily have a K98 Mauser actioned rifle in any calibre from 22rimfire up to any length cartridge that doesn't require a magnum Mauser length action .
I don't recall mentioning buffalo in my first reply so I don't know where you got that from .It's got nothing to do with shooting buffalo and the 308 and 30-06 are not considered adequate for buffalo .

Many custom rifles have been built using the M96 action , mine in particular , 303 based cartridges are not common in Mauser actions ,as the Mauser was not designed to utilise rimmed cases , only the Siamese Mauser was made use of a rimmed cartridge case. How ever a small modification the the magazine will allow any Mauser to handle rimmed cartridges.
The 96 Mauser action is just as strong as the 98 and will handle any cartridge that the 98 will .
I've just bought a Pre WWII Mauser rifle in 303-270 ( 303 necked down to 270 ) , I am getting this rifle re-barrelled to 303 British , so I will have two Mauser in unusual calibres.

Cheers

Marc
13th Oct 2013, 02:59 PM
What I learned so far:
-The Swedish Mauser must be the most modified military gun ever.

-A lot of people don't like to modify the original gun and call any change to it, to "Bubba" the gun hehe I understand. I like original Ford Mod A, and hate their plastic lowered v8 versions, but a Swedish Sporter is a practical gun, the original is hardly something you want to take to hunt with, unless you are game to go without a Scope.

-I don't need to cut the barrell! That is good because I can always cut it later, but at 29 if I can handle the weight, it will perform well and quieter... (in relative terms)

-Turning down the bolt, changing the trigger and safety seem to be comon ground to all modifications.

-Some go with new stock, some modify the military stock.

Still collecting more data before deciding which way to go. I also learned that talking about guns, is a touchy subject, talk about hunting buffalo can land you in magnum hot water ... I wonder if the 6.5x55 will be any good on rabbits or Raven? :U

fxst
13th Oct 2013, 10:56 PM
My Swedish 6.5x55 is a M96 and is full wood. I am changing the stock possibly for a laminated thumbhole stock from Boyds in the US. Nice stock and the only downside is the postage at $US69.00 The stock is $US69 or $US99 depending on which one I go with. Still looking at other options but pretty much sure I'll go with Boyds
Pete

barkersegg
14th Oct 2013, 03:44 PM
I'd be interested to how the Boyds stocks shape up fxst - am also looking to change my stocks on some 96's and 98's from the full wood.....from what I understand there's minimal work as mostly just drop in and bed if you want.....seems they cut to tight specs so let us know how you go there.

fxst
14th Oct 2013, 09:22 PM
No worries I will. A mate of mine bought 1 for his Remington .223 2 years ago and it was a simple drop in fit though he did bed the barrel. He is pretty happy with it and has just ordered another stock for his .243 so I reckon they are the way to go.
Pete

Oldneweng
16th Oct 2013, 11:01 PM
No worries I will. A mate of mine bought 1 for his Remington .223 2 years ago and it was a simple drop in fit though he did bed the barrel. He is pretty happy with it and has just ordered another stock for his .243 so I reckon they are the way to go.
Pete

"Bed" the barrel? Normally you bed the receiver and most times relieve the stock at the barrel.

Dean

fxst
16th Oct 2013, 11:21 PM
yep you're right I meant bed the receiver. Some days it pays to look at the screen before hitting enter :B :oo:
Pete

eskimo
24th Oct 2013, 10:55 AM
"Bed" the barrel?

Well sort of bedding anyway.....I understand it can/has been done to improve accuracy.

Dont they put a pin or something under the barrel and between the fore end of stock to create strain on the barrel to improve vibration when fired?

Grahame Collins
24th Oct 2013, 06:18 PM
Well sort of bedding anyway.....I understand it can/has been done to improve accuracy.

Dont they put a pin or something under the barrel and between the fore end of stock to create strain on the barrel to improve vibration when fired?

Just the opposite! The idea is to avoid having the barrel vibrating against the forestock. Google "floating a rifle barrel" to get the idea.There are also some gizmos that can be fitted near the muzzle to reduce the barrel resonance and tighten up grouping.

There's also a whole science on barrel lengths and projectile lengths all aimed at reducing barrel resonance with the aim of decreasing group size.


Bedding the receiver is just one of many methods that can be used for increasing accuracy.

Grahame

Marc
24th Oct 2013, 07:29 PM
Just the opposite! The idea is to avoid having the barrel vibrating against the forestock. Google "floating a rifle barrel" to get the idea.There are also some gizmos that can be fitted near the muzzle to reduce the barrel resonance and tighten up grouping.

There's also a whole science on barrel lengths and projectile lengths all aimed at reducing barrel resonance with the aim of decreasing group size.


Bedding the receiver is just one of many methods that can be used for increasing accuracy.

Grahame
Actually, things are not that black and white when it comes to accurizing a rifle. There is a bit of black magic involved.
When it is true that today most people go for bedding the receiver and free float the barrel, not long ago it was bedd the receiver and part of the barrel, from a few inches, half way or all the way solid. Then there is pressure bedding with the stock having some pressure points to increase accuracy. All this things work sometimes and sometimes they do not. Remington had a pressure point on the stock in their model 700. Many people improve accuracy by trying different positions for a pressure point between the stock and the barrel, even a screw.. It works and then it does not. Free floating also can be just like that, you free float and it does nothing at all for accuracy.

Oldneweng
24th Oct 2013, 07:42 PM
Just the opposite! The idea is to avoid having the barrel vibrating against the forestock. Google "floating a rifle barrel" to get the idea.There are also some gizmos that can be fitted near the muzzle to reduce the barrel resonance and tighten up grouping.

There's also a whole science on barrel lengths and projectile lengths all aimed at reducing barrel resonance with the aim of decreasing group size.


Bedding the receiver is just one of many methods that can be used for increasing accuracy.

Grahame

Not all rifles have floating barrels. Some makers such as Weatherby tend to have a point contact at the front of the stock. I prefer floating myself.

Dean

eskimo
25th Oct 2013, 07:22 AM
Just the opposite! The idea is to avoid having the barrel vibrating against the forestock. Google "floating a rifle barrel" to get the idea.There are also some gizmos that can be fitted near the muzzle to reduce the barrel resonance and tighten up grouping.

There's also a whole science on barrel lengths and projectile lengths all aimed at reducing barrel resonance with the aim of decreasing group size.


Bedding the receiver is just one of many methods that can be used for increasing accuracy.

Grahame


I should have said "lessen" not "improve"

Marc has explained what I was trying to say...a "pressure point"

hybridfiat
3rd Nov 2013, 12:15 AM
Using pressure point bedding on the barrel will work but usually only for a few rounds before the group starts to string vertically.
Bedding the receiver is the most common method and generally works well across a variety of conditions and stocks.
It isnt hard if you are handy with tools and can follow directions. There's plenty on Youtube to help you.
Pillar bedding is lot more involved and not to be done to a synthetic stock without researching the composition and construction of the stock first.
An easy compound to use when bedding is any of the devcon 'metal in epoxy' products (or equivalent) except the really flexible types.
Use lots of release agent!
The barrel is way too long for a sporter, 25" is the max you need to get efficient combustion of the powder. If you still get a huge flame on firing then your load or powder type is wrong.
There is a persistent rumour originating in America that the 96 is a 'weak' action. True it does not have the third safety lug made by the handle that you will find on a 98. But if you measure the bearing surface area of the 2 forward lugs you will see it is larger than many modern actions.
The european 6.5x55 ammo is loaded to higher pressures than the pissweak US stuff yet the 96 is the most common action in Scandinavia after Sako. There is no record of them blowing up.
However use your nouse if you reload and research the loads well.
The 6.5 is a great caliber, I have a 6.5x54R. The rimmed version for single shots and drillings.
Get a good scope 4-14x50 or thereabouts and have some fun.:2tsup:

hybridfiat
3rd Nov 2013, 12:58 AM
Theres some really good advice about the aftermarket stocks here. The Swedish Mausers are a very good rifles and if your barrel is good it is well worth the time and effort. Ive shot M96s and converted M38s. When they shoot straight there arent many rifles that come close in terms of versatility, from varminting with little pills to goats and roos at 400m with 130s and 140s. Just choose the pill that will work for your prey and go for it.
Here's a link to a bedding tutorial.
Bedding a Rifle With MatchGrade Bedding Compound (http://www.ballisticstudies.com/Resources/Articles/Bedding+a+Rifle+With+MatchGrade+Bedding+Compound.html)
Nathan is very finicky, as he should be he's doing it for clients and charging accordingly.
I dont go to quite the lengths Nathan does as I dont do stock bedding for a living any more. I use Devcon titanium epoxy (because I can, steel or SS is just as good) and it is much more viscous than Nathan's stuff. So I dont have to dam everywhere. I also machine my pillars from 1" aluminium rod, sink them into the stock with the Devcon and then when it's all set relieve both the action sides and the barrel till only the pillars and the first 2" of the knoxform of the barrel are supported. I ensure that when the action is screwed down into the stock there is no spring or compression. It should feel like you have just nipped up 2 perfectly flat steel surfaces together and the only spring is the bolt stretch ie almost none. If there is a significant gradual increase in tension something is amiss and the action or barrel is being put under tension and will move each time you fire.
Have a read about Nathan's opinion on the 6.5 and loads, remember he is a long range specialist and that bias is obvious, nevertheless he is experienced and knows his stuff. Im hoping to shoot with him next year in Feb.http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/images/smilies/shooter.gif
6.5x55 (http://www.ballisticstudies.com/Knowledgebase/6.5x55.html)

291891This is my BSA Monarch in .223 rem about to be pillar bedded. Refurbished stock, handcut checkering, Tobler heavy SS match barrel. Simmons 44mag 6.5-20x44 scope (replaced with Zeiss 6.5-20x50 with varmint z plex) Please excuse the mess.:B

fxst
20th Nov 2013, 05:02 PM
Well I bit the bullet and got the Boyd featherweight thumbhole stock and it took 12 days from order to pick up here in country SA. Mine is shown as unfinished but its as they say on their web page and I'll be starting on it tomorrow. It looks good and as I use it to hunt I will clear finish it rather than oil it. Very happy with it and at US$136 ( AU$144) cheap as chips. :D
Pete